Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano: Tasting The Chianti Classico From Their Newest Estate

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 9/12/2019

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano: Tasting The Chianti Classico From Their Newest Estate

There's a 700-year story that the Frescobaldi Family has maintained in Tuscany which has a strong bond towards the world of wine. In the year 2017, Marchesi de' Frescobaldi acquired a new addition to their already substantial wine empire pegging the number to seven estates in Tuscany. Prior to the acquisition, they have been managing the estate since 2014. The six other estates are Castello Pomino, Castello Nipozzano in Chianti Rufina, Tenuta Castelgiocondo in Montalcino, Tenuta Castiglioni in Val di Pesa, Tenuta Ammiraglia in Maremma and Remole. In addition to their impressive portfolio, there are also the world-renowned Masseto, Ornellaia, Luce della Vite, Danzante and Attems.

The newest inclusion is Tenuta Perano, a 250-hectare property at an altitude of 400 to 500 meters above sea level, 60 hectares of which are cultivated with vines while some are planted with olive trees. The very good thing about the Tenuta Perano is that it is not just an estate but a premium-quality one that happens to be in the Chianti Classico zone. Nature has provided its excellence because it is formed like a natural amphitheater carpeted with terraced vineyards in steep slopes which facilitates good drainage, facing the southern side which gets optimum sun exposure. The soils are rocky with varying amounts of clay, silt, chalky macigno sandstone, and traditional Chianti alberese and galestro marls. These are characteristics that help the vine to adapt to the scarcity of water and organic substances. Cultivated are 90% Sangiovese while the rest of the vineyards are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. This area in Tuscany boasts soils and climates that are diverse from each other yet they complement each other.

Tenuta Perano is a single body that displays three distinct personalities which are bottled in different wines: Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and Rialzi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

The first vintage that Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano released to the market was 2015 (2014 was not released) for the Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva while the Rialzi is 2019. The gravel-rich soil of the Rialzi cru vineyard gives the most significant expression of the Perano terroir. The wine produced from these grapes are used to make the Rialzi Gran Selezione. Leaving nature's valuable assets, Frescobaldi doesn't intervene with the qualities that they yield but merely assist in taking out the best that the vines can give. Only indigenous yeasts are used in the fermentation. The result is the quintessence of its terroir.

“Perano crowns our mission, Cultivating Toscana Diversity,” explains Frescobaldi President Lamberto Frescobaldi, “which commits us to cultivating and further developing the utter uniqueness that is Tuscany. In this corner of earth, we discovered the ideal spot not only to concretely express our philosophy but to highlight as well the different characteristics displayed in the various vineyards sharing the same site.”

"Similar to what can often happen with humans, grapevines in challenging conditions develop additional character and quality. In a certain sense, these can be seen as antibodies that allow the vine to overcome climate-related pressures. While important, though, this isn’t enough by itself. To get the very best out of each vine, one has to enter into harmony with it, tramp the dirt in the vineyards, touch every shoot, taste, get dirty." explained Nicolò d’Afflitto, Frescobaldi Winemaker and Technical Director.

The underground cellar is being overseen by Riccardo Giorgi who spent many professional oenoligical years in Bordeaux. It has an internal environment that's totally natural with a vaulted ceiling serving as a firmament over the oak barrels where the wines are resting. During a tour of the cellar, Riccardo took some samples for tasting of the 2017 Rialzi Gran Selezione that were aging in the new oak barrels where they will stay more to complete its 36-month barrel aging before its release to the market. Still at the beginning of its aging phase, the oak has already started its work in softening the tannins and release of light tertiary characteristics. The primary aromas of red berries and flowers were evident. It was a pleasure to taste a great wine in the making.

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Grapes were harvested manually from vines planted in 1999 in Chianti albarese soils rich with skeleton, facing south and southwestern with great sun exposures. Fermentation was done in stainless steel in controlled temperature. The wine partially aged in oak barrels and steel containers for 24 months then in the bottle. 2016 had been a very good climatic year that gave extraordinary wines for its intensity of aromas and richness in structure. The elegant wine has a brilliant purple color which carries pronounced ripe fruity and floral aromas emphasizing the varietal characteristics of red berries and black stone fruits and delicate tertiary characteristics of balsamic nuances, smooth tannins, very good acidity and long finish.

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015

Grapes were harvested manually from vines planted in 1999 in Chianti marl soils rich with stones, facing south and southwestern with great sun exposures. Fermentation was done in stainless steel and the aging took place in large Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months. 2015 was considered an excellent climatic year that's much attributed to the hot summer temperatures and that gave optimum wines for its intensity of aromas and richness of tannins which a couple of summer rains have contributed in its silkiness and softness. Brilliant purple which opens completely in the nose with ample complexities in enhanced by fruity notes of mature red berries, sweet black stone fruits, lightly floral, balsamic, eucalyptus and almond highlights. It is elegant and harmonious with a good tannin structure, medium acidity and persistence in the mouth.

Tenuta Perano Rialzi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015

Sangiovese and a small amount of Merlot grapes were harvested manually at the beginning of October from vines planted in 1999 in arenaceous and calcareous soils rich in clay and skeleton, facing south and southwestern with great sun exposures. Fermentation was done in stainless steel and the aging took place in new French oak barrique for 24 months and further aging in the bottle. With an excellent climatic year, 2015 gave optimum wines for its the intensity of the varietal aromas and richness of tannins. Intense and brilliant ruby red with garnet red hints, the wine has ample complexities, underlining the fruity and spicy varietal characteristics. The tertiary bouquet is pronounced with notes of dried tobacco leaves, nuts and balsamic nuances. There's a richness in the palate that persists long in the finish. A perfectly harmonious wine with great elegance.

Osteria Perano

 Tenuta Perano completes the Tuscan hospitality with the Osteria Perano, a charming refined and informal restaurant managed by Francesca Mori, where you can eat the excellent dishes prepared by Chef Leonardo Spaccavento with the wines of Tenuta Perano. The delightful restaurant gives its guests the view of the chefs at work from the dining area while it continues to the luminous veranda that opens directly to the blossom-filled garden. It has a very pleasant and youthful ambience that takes you to an enriching enogastronomic journey of the authentic flavors and traditions of Tuscany.  

The seasonal menu features a handful of exquisite recipes that combine traditional and modern techniques. They are meticulously prepared by the chef and his team, with the use of the best certified Tuscan ingredients coming from small artisans and grown from the estate itself. The seasonality of the raw materials is placed in utmost importance at the kitchen because when it is only in the right season when they are able to express themselves to the maximum.  

Some excellent dishes to take note of are: Cappellaccio stuffed with courgette flowers and bio truffle primosale cheese served with thyme-flavored zucchini cream, helichrysum and pine nuts; Grilled Chianina IGP bred into the wild of Nipozzano Castle with baked potatoes; and Chicken liver patè mousse and citrus fruit reduction on toasted pan brioche.