Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 12/03/2021

The Birth of Tiramisù at Le Beccherie Restaurant in Treviso, Italy

Tiramisù. We all know how good this very popular Italian dessert is. Translated to "pull me up" in English, the rich and restorative dessert is definitely pumped with ingredients that can provide a jolt of energy. Coffee, cocoa powder, sugar, egg yolks, mascarpone and savoiardi (ladyfingers). This delicious dessert has all the qualities of being the most produced in the Italian kitchens for its easiness in preparation - just dip the ladyfingers in the coffee, whisk the eggs and mix with mascarpone, sprinkle the cocoa powder then refrigerate. After a couple of hours, you will have one of the best soft sponge of cream, coffee and cocoa gooodness!

The Story of Tiramisù

It is curious to know that the original recipe of tiramisù took shape for the first time for an important reason, to help re-energize a new mother from the fatigue of childbirth. The story of this invigorating dessert started at Le Beccherie, a restaurant in Treviso, Veneto (northern Italy) during the post-war period. It was at the birth of Carlo Campeol, son of Alba Campeol who was at that time, together with her husband, the owners of the restaurant. While Alba was recovering from the fatigue of childbirth and breastfeeding, her mother-in-law started to prepare a revitalizing breakfast of eggnog and coffee to give her a full energy in facing the many challenges of the day. Later on, when Alba returned to the restaurant's kitchen, she decided to introduce a dessert inspired by the breakfast prepared for her by her mother-in-law. Together with pastry chef Lolì Linguanotto, they embarked on a long period of research and experimentation: they tried their hand at whisking cream with egg whites without getting the desired result. Finally, inspired by the mascarpone and mostarda (a Northern Italian condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard-flavored syrup) served with panettone at Christmas time in Treviso, Alba decided to replace the cream with mascarpone and the result was the Tiramisù we all know: layers of ladyfingers softened in coffee and mascarpone cream then all covered with a light layer of cocoa powder. It was 1972.

The popularity of Tiramisù has soared from then on which was adopted not only by the other restaurants of Treviso but also throughout Italy then eventually, to the rest of the world. Over the years, many have tried to replicate the original recipe of Alba, but it has never been disclosed in detail. It is certain, as Alba herself is keen to specify, that the most difficult thing is to obtain a perfect balance between the bitter notes of coffee and cocoa and the sweetness of the cream. The coffee used by Alba is short coffee from a moka pot and strictly unsweetened. The quality and freshness of the ingredients are significant to the result.

Tiramisù Recipe

Here is the original recipe that on October 15, 2010 was filed with the Notarial Deed No. 7947 at the Italian Academy of Cuisine:

Ingredients:
6 egg yolks
250 grams, sugar
500 grams, mascarpone
40 ladyfingers
Just enough coffee
Cocoa powder

Preparation:
Prepare the coffee and let it cool in a bowl. Whisk until foamy: 6 egg yolks with 250 grams of sugar and add 500 grams of mascarpone to obtain a soft cream. Wet 20 ladyfingers with coffee, taking care not to soak them too much and arrange them in a row in the center of a circular plate. Spread half of the cream on the ladyfingers and then overlap another layer of 20 ladyfingers soaked in coffee, then spread the surface with the remaining mascarpone cream. Sprinkle the mascarpone with sifted low-fat cocoa. Put in the fridge until ready to serve.
-Giuseppe Maffioli, Vin Veneto - Quarterly magazine of wine, grappa, gastronomy and various humanity of the Veneto, vol. 1, year VIII, 1981

Le Beccherie Restaurant

Le Beccherie stands at the heart of the city of Treviso, just next to the historical Piazza dei Signori where it has been carrying a tradition that dates back to the 19th-century representing the genuine tavern cuisine of Treviso. In 1939, the Campeol family took over enriched its image and strengthened its position as a point of gastronomic reference, the highest point of which is its taking part with the history of Italian gastronomy with their invention of the Tiramisù. 

However, at the approach of the new millennium, in 2014, the Campeol family sold the restaurant to its current owner, Paolo Lai. Being well-known in Treviso as a person who has motivated relaunching projects in the preservation of the historic center of the city, Paolo continued and protected one of the historical gastronomic traditions of Treviso, the Tiramisù of Le Beccherie.

In 2015 the restaurant reopened its doors with more dynamic menu by Chefs Manuel Gobbo and Beatrice Simonetti. They combine the richness of local raw ingredients with a creative perspective and innovative techniques. It is a cuisine that takes out the best indigenous expressions merged with imaginative incorporation of flavors without losing the spirit of the territory. Manuel is a native of Treviso gained his experiences at Michelin-starred restaurants Ciasa Salares in San Cassiano with Chef Fabio Cucchelli and La Stüa de Michil with Chef Arturo Spicocchi at Corvara. On the other hand, Beatrice, also a local of a town in Treviso, has accumulated experiences in some well-known national restaurants in Sirmione, Gardone Riviera, Merano and Alta Badia. It is at Ciasa Salares where she met and worked with Manuel.

The menu has proposals for Appetizer between €18 to €25, Pasta and Risotto between €16 to €21, Main Course between €22 to €35, and Desserts between €7 to €10. There are two tasting menus available: Essenziale at €70 for 5 courses, Ti p'Orto al Mare at €110 for 7 courses. The highlight of the experience is concluding the meal with Tiramisù which is still created using the original recipe of Alba. In addition to the traditional recipe, they also propose a "wrong version" which is accompanied by pearls of Prosecco.