Azienda Provveditore: The Expression of Sangiovese in Maremma at the Vertical Tasting of Morellino di Scansano

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 2/22/2023

Azienda Provveditore: The Expression of Sangiovese in Maremma at the Vertical Tasting of Morellino di Scansano

The vibrant character of Cristina Bargagli of Azienda Provveditore and her wines made up an interesting lunch at Ristorante Ai Bozzi in Rome one fine day in January. The main theme of the meeting was a vertical tasting of the Morellino di Scansano from 2014 to 2018 then lunch with dishes paired with more of her labels such as the 100% Procanico Maremma Toscana DOC, 100% Ansonaca Maremma Toscana DOC, Sassato Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2018, Primo Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG 2017 and the Appassito di Tufo 2007.

In the family's history, it was born as an agricultural farm but it was in the 1970s when they made a pivotal change. Alessandro Bargagli pioneered the shift from the production of bulk wine to bottled wine in the area when he understood the potentiality of the wine. The winery was one of the first five that promoted Morellino di Scansano. 1992, the consortium was founded in which Alessandro took the job of presidency. Then in 2017, the management has been handed over to his daughter Cristina, the fourth generation of the family. Alessandro functions as the agronomist while their oenologist Daniele Di Mambro takes care of the cellar. The company now has an annual production of 150,000 bottles in which around 70,000 are Morellino di Scansano.

The wine estate is located a few kilometers from Scansano, an area that represents one of the most significant historical realities for the production of Morellino di Scansano. It has 40 hectares of vineyards, lying on land 350 meters above sea level, immersed among the green hills of the Tuscan Maremma from where the view of Monte Amiata and the Argentario coast are visible. It is located in the the ancient Contrada dei Salaioli, a historical area that is particularly suited to the production of wine, which according to Luigi Vannuccini, one of the fathers of modern Scansano viticulture in the 19th-century, and to his nephew Vannuccio, the Contrada was fertile and rich for the cultivation of vines and olive trees.

In fact, the estate has 5,000 olive trees and some autochthonous vines such as Procanico, Ansonica and the main highlight, Sangiovese. Some vineyards have two to three decades of age, cultivated on skeletal rich tuffaceous-limestone soils. The characteristics of their wines are linked to the complexity of the soils of the territory, the mild Mediterranean climate with the dry wind pushing from the nearby sea. The wines have the expression of the skillful union of tradition and innovation, strongly linked to the territory, which give a strong personality, structure and longevity in the glass.

Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Morellino di Scansano DOCG, an Italian red wine from the hilly terrain of Scansano, in the Maremma region of the Tuscan coast. It is obtained from a minimum of 85% Sangiovese and 15% non-aromatic black grape varieties that are authorized by the denomination such as Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Canaiolo, Alicante, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. In the area, Morellino is actually the local name of Sangiovese. Sangiovese is the principal component of more known Tuscan wines like Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino but expressed in a much different way. The Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) classification was granted in 1978 then upgraded to DOCG in 2007.

Morellino di Scansano is a young, fresh and crisp red wine that does not need to mature in oak, and can be released in March after harvest. Morellino di Scansano Riserva is aged in wood for at least a year and can be released on 1 January, two years after the harvest. The vinification is closely linked to the tradition of Scansano which gives more color to the must and defines the future structure of the wines. The maceration of the grapes in stainless steel containers lasts about 10 days at a controlled temperature, intensifying the oxygenation of the must in the first few days. In the following days, accurate and targeted pumping over is carried out in order to extract favorably the components present in the grape skins which are essential in giving the wines complexity and longevity. The alcoholic fermentation coincides with the end of malolactic fermentation so as to have advantages of balance, persistence and brilliance of color over time. The refinement is done in stainless steel containers then in the bottle. In the case of selected wines for the Riserva, the wine is left to mature in oak barrique for 4 to 7 months, then another 6 month in the bottle before it goes out to the market.

"Our desire to produce wines that are good over time, complex and elegant, has been fulfilled, our choice today translates into a wine of greater prestige," concludes Cristina.

Vertical Tasting of Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2014 to 2018

Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2018 
A deep ruby red color with medium complexity and intensity in the nose with aromas of black mature plums, and black cherries, leather, cocoa. On the palate, the tannins are well-integrated, marked freshness, with the ripe black plums lingering and persistent finish.

  Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2017 
First vintage that went through the change from French oak to Italian oak. Deep ruby red with a complexity and warmth in the nose, the aromas have more concentration with dark stone fruits and sweetness, and dried tobacco. On the palate, plush tannins, vibrant freshness, and more concentration, with long finish.

Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2016 
A vibrant deep ruby red color in the glass with a complex nose, earth floor, mushroom, iron, flint and dried flowers. On the palate the freshness is lingering and fine, ripe black stone fruits and long finish.

Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2015 
Vibrant deep ruby red with a complex nose with aromas that spread thinly, ripe dark fruits, dried flowers, and balsamic notes. Elegant wine with supple tannins, freshness, ripe dark fruits, enveloping warmth and persistence.

Provveditore Morellino di Scansano 2014 
Evolving from color which tends to go towards garnet, complexity and intensity in the nose with distinctive earthy tones of mushrooms and earth floor, balsamic notes while in the mouth, the freshness lingers long, hint of sapidity and long finish.