Ciliegiolo Takes Center Stage: Celebrating the Grape at Ciliegiolo di Maremma & d'Italia

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 7/21/2024

Ciliegiolo Takes Center Stage: Celebrating the Grape at Ciliegiolo di Maremma & d'Italia

In 2014, a new chapter began for the wines of Grosseto with the founding of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. This organization was established following the awarding of the DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) designation, a recognition that underscored the exceptional quality of the region's wines. The consortium's mission is to promote the high standards of its wines, ensure compliance with stringent production specifications, protect the brand, and support its members with navigating the regulatory landscape of the wine industry.

Maremma Toscana DOC

The Maremma Toscana DOC encompasses the entire province of Grosseto, a region known for its vast and varied vineyards. Covering 9,000 hectares, with 2,347 hectares specifically dedicated to DOC wine production during the 2023 harvest, the area offers a unique blend of climatic, pedological, and morphological conditions that make its wines truly distinctive.

The diversity of the Maremma terroir is one of its greatest assets. East of the Fiora River, in the Pitigliano and Sorano districts, vineyards thrive in volcanic soils, imparting unique mineral characteristics to the wines. Between the Fiora and Ombrone rivers, the landscape is dominated by marly and marly-pelitic formations, creating ideal conditions for producing complex and robust wines. In the Upper Maremma, the coastal hills and alluvial plains feature clayey and clayey-loamy soils, which contribute to the richness and depth of the wines produced there. No other area in Tuscany offers such a varied selection of wines, thanks to this notable biodiversity and the diverse soil and climate conditions across Grosseto.

The Maremma Toscana DOC is home to a wide range of grape varieties. Internationally renowned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Petit Verdot flourish here, producing wines that are celebrated globally. Simultaneously, traditional varieties like Ciliegiolo, Alicante, Pugnitello, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ansonica remain integral to the region's viticulture, offering a taste of Tuscany's rich wine heritage.

A Decade of Progress and Innovation of the Consortium of Ciliegiolo

Since its inception, the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana has been instrumental in advancing the region's wine industry. Under the leadership of Francesco Mazzei, the consortium has not only maintained rigorous standards but also encouraged innovation and experimentation among producers. As Mazzei explains, "For our denomination, it is a native variety that brings us great satisfaction in all its variations. We produce a total of 7 million bottles, with around 400,000 being this type, which lends itself well to continual experimentation."

Francesco Mazzei, President of the Consorzio Vini Maremma Toscana and Barbara Belcari, Vice Mayor of Sora

As the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana marked its tenth anniversary, the future appears promising for this flourishing wine region. The consortium's devotion to quality, tradition, and innovation guarantees that Maremma wines will continue to enchant both connoisseurs and casual enthusiasts. The area's rich terroir, varied grape varieties, and commitment to excellence elevate Maremma Toscana DOC as a frontrunner in the international wine community.

The Event: Ciliegiolo di Maremma e d'Italia

On June 16th and 17th, wine enthusiasts and industry professionals when the Orsini Fortress in Sorano (Grosseto) hosted the second edition of "Ciliegiolo di Maremma e d'Italia." The event aimed to highlight the revival of the indigenous Ciliegiolo grape, sparking renewed interest among both producers and the public.

There were two days of tastings, showcasing the finest pure Ciliegiolo labels from the Tuscan Maremma, where the grape thrives in mineral-rich soils and a favorable climate, as well as from other regions of Tuscany and across Italy, including Umbria, Liguria, Marche, and Emilia Romagna. Thirty-three companies presented 57 pure Ciliegiolo wines, including 26 with the Maremma Toscana DOC label.

"With this event, we want to highlight a selection of pure Ciliegiolo wines from various regions of Italy to demonstrate the many facets this grape can offer, ranging from pleasant and easy-drinking to more complex and long-lived versions," explains Francesco Mazzei. "For our denomination, it is a native variety that brings us great satisfaction in all its variations. We produce a total of 7 million bottles, with around 400,000 being this type, which lends itself well to continual experimentation."

The historic Orsini Fortress in Sorano opened its doors to wine lovers, restaurateurs, wine sellers, and industry professionals drawn by the latest developments related to this grape. There were also vertical tastings featuring older vintages provided by the producers, offering participants a deeper exploration of the wine. Another highlight was the Masterclass conducted by Christian Roger, a renowned Italian-French wine consultant, wherein four Ciliegiolo wines were blindtasted in comparison with four wines from France from various grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Syrah, Carignan and a blend of Grenache with Mourvèdre.

Organized by the Consortium for the Protection of Wines of the Tuscan Maremma, the event was the result of collaboration between the Consortium, the Ciliegiolo Academy, Ciliegiolo d'Italia, and the FISAR Delegation Colline Maremmane, with MExTE Eventi serving as the organizing agency.

Ciliegiolo, The Protagonist

Ciliegiolo is a unique grape, known for its ruby red color with light purple reflections, flavors and aromas reminiscent of ripe fruit, and a pleasant and balanced taste. Recently rediscovered and appreciated, the variety gets its name from the cherry-like color of the grape and the aromas of the wine. Historically, Ciliegiolo grapes were blended with other varieties, primarily Sangiovese, but today it is mostly vinified on its own to produce distinctive DOC and IGT wines from Central Italy. It is cultivated in Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Emilia-Romagna, Marche, Liguria, Basilicata, Abruzzo, and to a lesser extent, in five other Italian regions. However, its greatest concentration is in Tuscany, particularly in the province of Grosseto, where nearly 60% of Tuscany’s 550 hectares are dedicated to the Maremma Toscana Ciliegiolo DOC label.

Ciliegiolo's sensitivity to terroir makes it essential to grow it on suitable land. The Grosseto Maremma represents one of the most promising areas for this variety, with significant interpretations also found in Umbria between Orvieto and the Amerini Hills, in Upper Lazio, and in parts of Marche.