Expriencing Langhe's Treasures: The Unusual Tour with Albeisa

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 7/24/2024

Expriencing Langhe's Treasures: The Unusual Tour with Albeisa

In the scenic region of Langhe, where the vineyard landscapes of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are celebrated as UNESCO World Heritage sites, a unique, artisanal wine bottle known as the Albeisa has stood as an emblem of local craftsmanship and tradition since the 1700s. Originally conceived by the wine producers around Alba, this distinctive bottle was brought to life by the skilled hands of master glassblowers from the Vetrerie di Poirino. With its instantly recognizable shoulder contour, the Albeisa bottle quickly became a symbol of elegance and distinction, gracing the tables of both nobility and the burgeoning middle class. Despite its initial popularity, the rise of industrial glass production in the 19th century led to the decline of the handcrafted Albeisa, relegating it to a relic of a bygone era.

The revival of the Albeisa bottle in 1973 marked a significant turning point, driven by the collective efforts of 16 visionary producers from the Alba area. Inspired by Renato Ratti, they reintroduced the bottle with a modern twist, regulated by a detailed Statute to protect its use and maintain its connection to the Langhe region. This rebirth wasn't just about reviving an old design; it was about creating a symbol of quality and authenticity, with the bottle now featuring the embossed name "ALBEISA" on its shoulder, making it instantly recognizable from any angle. This strategic move solidified the Albeisa bottle as an integral part of the local wine identity, closely regulated by the Associazione dei Produttori dell’Albese to ensure its exclusive use with specific grape varieties and denominations.

Today, the Albeisa bottle stands as a testament to the enduring blend of tradition and innovation in the Langhe wine industry. Adopted by over 300 producers and seen in nearly 18 million bottles exported globally each year, the Albeisa bottle exemplifies the region's commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. The introduction of the Albeisa Leggera, a lighter version of the traditional bottle, underscores this commitment, reducing environmental impact while preserving the bottle's iconic design. Furthermore, initiatives like the Bosco Albeisa project demonstrate the producers' dedication to global sustainability, transforming the bottle from a mere container into a symbol of ecological and cultural stewardship.

Albeisa, now a consortium, efficiently aims to conserve the Langhe wine culture and affirm the uniqueness of the Albeisa bottle. Taking a significant step forward, they conduct wine tastings at their main hub in the heart of Alba and organize distinctive tours of the territory to provide a deeper discovery of the wines and their origins. Langhe is a treasure trove of enogastronomy, culture, and immense beauty, and I invite you to explore what awaits on the Unusual Tour of the Langhe with Albeisa.

Wine Tasting at the Albeisa Consortium Hub

The Albeisa Consortium, under the leadership of President Marina Marcarino, provides exceptional wine tasting experiences that delve into the rich wine landscape of Langhe and Roero from their central hub in Alba. Guests can choose from curated routes that feature the region's renowned native and international varieties, including the iconic Barolo and Barbaresco from Nebbiolo grapes, alongside lesser-known yet equally outstanding wines like Dolcetto d'Alba, Barbera d'Alba, and Moscato d'Asti. Each route emphasizes the wines' unique characteristics and the impact of their origins on flavor profiles, while also highlighting intriguing native white grapes such as Nascetta and Arneis, which are being rediscovered as great classics.

The Ultimate Truffle Experience: Hunting with Dogs in Alba

Truffle hunting is a fascinating and enjoyable adventure that combines nature exploration with the thrill of discovering these elusive fungi. Langhe, an incredibly rich territory apparently has all six edible black and white truffles. During our truffle hunt that was just over an hour long, the truffle hunter and his two highly-skilled dogs found multiple truffles. The dogs’ infectious enthusiasm, as they track scents through the woods outside Alba, makes the experience even more uplifting. Truffles form a symbiotic relationship with tree roots through microscopic structures called hyphae, exchanging water and nutrients. It takes about three months for truffles to mature and develop the distinctive aromas that trained dogs can detect. The thrill of the hunt lies in both finding truffles and understanding the intricate growth processes that sustain them.

The hunting season varies, with summer truffles available from June to November and the prized white truffles of Alba from late September to January. Whereas from December to March, the three other varieties of truffles including the important noble black truffle known as Perigord can be found. Walking through forests with a trained dog, eager to unearth these hidden treasures, is both fun and educational. Learning about the different types of truffles, their preferred host trees such as the hazelnuts, oaks, beeches, chestnuts and poplars, and the specific conditions they need to thrive adds depth to the adventure, making it a rich and rewarding experience.

Training truffle dogs is a fascinating part of truffle hunting. Puppies start their training early, as soon as they are weaned and begin eating solid food. Small pieces of truffles are hidden in the garden to help them associate the scent with rewards, gradually honing their skills over several years. While mixed breed dogs can excel in this work, breeds like the Lagotto Romagnolo, with their keen sense of smell and natural digging instincts, are particularly adept. Hunting at night, when truffle aromas are strongest, adds an element of mystery and excitement. Overall, truffle hunting is a rewarding pastime that offers a unique blend of fun, education, and a deep connection with nature.

Cooking Lunch From Scratch at Effefood's Kitchen Laboratory

Preparing a four-course lunch in a single morning might seem overwhelming, but with Fernanda Giamello leading the way, it becomes an exhilarating adventure. In her kitchen laboratory at Effe Food, what could be a daunting task is transformed into an engaging culinary experience. The day kicks off with a cup of coffee to energize, followed by a coordinated effort from eight pairs of hands. We worked together to create a delightful array of dishes: creamy salsa verde made from patiently chopped parsley, soft zucchine flan with blue cheese sauce, delicate handmade ravioli, tajarin with hazelnuts and ricotta, rich braised beef with Barolo, and the pièce de résistance, the delightful Piedmontese sweet, baci di dama. Each dish was crafted with care and order, and the meal was perfectly paired with wines from the Albeisa Consortium, elevating the experience to a level of both satisfaction. After all, the whole lunch was the result of a concerted effort between ladies with one aim – to make the delicious dishes arrive to the table in time for lunch!

Fernanda’s culinary approach is deeply rooted in her Barbaresco upbringing, where the traditions of Langhe and Roero blend with her passion for social commitment. Her kitchen workshops reflect this fusion, creating a space where people connect through the art of cooking. In her Alba kitchen, Fernanda weaves together family heritage, local recipes, and human connections, inviting participants to share in the joy of preparing and savoring food. Her workshops are more than cooking classes—they’re a celebration of culture, sustainability, and community, fostering bonds that transcend the kitchen.

The Vitis Vineyard Collection of Grinzane Cavour Castle

On top the hill of the Langhe, the Castle of Grinzane Cavour offers more than just breathtaking views; it serves as the gateway to a unique historical and botanical treasure. Built in the mid-11th century, this iconic castle overlooks the lush slope of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato Vineyard Landscapes. Descending from the castle, you will encounter the Vitis Grinzane Vineyard Collection, an open-air museum dedicated to the preservation and study of over 500 grape varieties from northwestern Italy and beyond. Established in 1992 by the CNR Institute for Sustainable Plant Protection, the collection includes both historic and endangered varieties, some of which have vanished from commercial vineyards. The collection is meticulously curated, with varietal identities confirmed through advanced morphological and genetic analyses. Recovery of the accessions, varietal identification, and collection and curation of data are credited to researchers and ampelographists Anna Schneider and Stefano Raimondi.

The Grinzane Cavour Collection offers a remarkable journey through viticultural history across one hectare, featuring rare and now-extinct grapevines from regions like Piedmont, Liguria, Valle d’Aosta, and beyond. This living archive not only conserves these invaluable varieties but also provides a tactile experience of their historical and oenological significance. As a unique educational and cultural resource, it enhances public understanding of the region’s winemaking heritage, showcasing intriguing varieties such as the Siberian variety, the two offsprings of Timorasso, the red-fleshed Teinturier, the nearly extinct Aramon and Gouais Blanc, one of Chardonnay’s progenitors. This commitment to preserving and sharing viticultural history makes the Grinzane Cavour Collection a standout attraction for both wine enthusiasts and curious minds.

Underground Alba: The Hidden Layers of Alba's Civilization

The “Underground Alba” project, launched in Spring 2011 and administered by Ambiente & Cultura in coordination with the F. Eusebio Museum of Alba, offers a unique exploration of the city’s deep historical layers. Alba, known as Alba Pompeia during Roman times, has continuously evolved over centuries, with medieval and modern towns rising atop Roman ruins. This fascinating stratification of civilizations is preserved just a few meters beneath today’s streets, where visitors can discover a wealth of archaeological treasures. The tours can be accompanied by an accredited professional archaeologist, to which you can gain in-depth insights into Alba’s history and heritage. The tour vividly demonstrates how the medieval city grew upon Roman foundations, and how the current urban layout is still influenced by the ancient city’s structure.

There are 31 sites in total under the city of Alba. Each area is marked by an explanatory panel, and visitors can follow an organized itinerary, either independently with the help of an educational brochure or through guided tours. These archaeological sites are located within public and private buildings in Alba’s historic center, with some areas freely accessible in outdoor municipal spaces. Notable sites include the remains of the Roman forum and medieval structures in Piazza Risorgimento, the Roman theatre in the Church of San Giuseppe, the Roman temple in Piazza Pertinace, and the Roman road pavements and sewer systems under various modern buildings. Particularly notable is the remains of a domus with a large mosaic flooring and an old Roman street with drainage system, situated directly beneath the building of the Albeisa Consortium, which offers a stunning glimpse into the city’s rich past.

Climb the Barbaresco Tower and Savor Local Wines

The Tower of Barbaresco, a 30-meter-high symbol of the town, dominates the Tanaro Valley and dates back to the 11th century. Initially constructed with a square brick base on a sandstone foundation, it was strategically important to the Municipality of Alba and restored by the Visconti family in the 14th century. The tower changed hands through various rulers and fell into disrepair by the 19th century. Acquired and restored by the Municipality of Barbaresco in 1982, it has been open to visitors since July 2015. Open daily from 9:00 to 20:00 with a €6 entry fee, the tower also offers a guided wine tasting experience for €30.

Barbaresco wine, granted DOC status in 1966 and DOCG status in 1980, is a renowned Nebbiolo-based wine from Piedmont, often compared to Barolo. Its history dates back to 1894 with the founding of Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco by Domizio Cavazza. After a decline during World War I, the wine’s revival in the late 1950s was led by dynamic winemakers like Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja, and the establishment of the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative by Don Fiorino Marengo. Today, 55% of Barbaresco’s territory is dedicated to grape growing. The former San Donato church now houses the Barbaresco Regional Enoteca Wine Shop, featuring 120 local labels and serving as a hub for tastings, sales, wine events, and tourist information.

Though Barbaresco and Barolo wines are made from the same Nebbiolo grape and produced less than 20 kilometers apart, they have distinct differences, with Barbaresco offering unique advantages. Located south of the Tanaro River, Barbaresco benefits from a slight maritime influence, allowing Nebbiolo to ripen earlier. This results in Barbaresco wines having less harsh tannins, making them more approachable at a younger age, although less suitable for long-term aging compared to Barolo. Under DOCG rules, Barbaresco must age for one year less than Barolo. Generally more elegant and less tannic, Barbaresco is also often more accessible when young and less expensive. Despite individual vineyard variations, such as the structured wines from Montestefano, Barbaresco tends to be less tannic due to more nutrient-rich soils. While both wines share aromas of roses, perfume, and cherry sauce with long finishes, Barbaresco’s mid-palate tannins are softer, providing a smoother taste compared to Barolo.

Visit Neive

Neive was founded by the Romans, named after the “Gens Nevia” family. During the Middle Ages and subsequent centuries, the town was contested by various families. It was occupied by Napoleon before finally becoming part of the Savoy property. Along the central paved road are the baroque churches of Saints Peter and Paul, and the Fraternity of San Michele. Artistically notable is the small temple of Santa Maria del Piano in the Borgonuovo village. Neive is renowned for producing some of the best wines in the Langhe region. It is the largest of the three municipalities in the Barbaresco production area.

The Palazzo dei Conti di Castelborgo, built in 1753, has a storied history, having housed noble families such as the Cissone, Bongiovanni di Castelborgo, Candiani, and Riccardi-Candiani families. Today, it is owned by the Stupino family, who produce wine under the name Castello di Neive. It is said that the first vinifications with Nebbiolo grapes were experimented with in the historic cellars of this palace. Count Camillo Benso di Cavour had invited the renowned French winemaker Louis Oudart to the castle. Thus, even before working for Marchioness Juliette Colbert of the Marchesi di Barolo, Oudart began his Piedmontese adventure in Neive, leading to the birth of the region’s great red wines.

Then there is the Casa della Donna Selvatica, a museum dedicated to Romano Levi’s, an artisan grappa maker in Neive, who recalls the Wild Women from his childhood as “beautiful and disheveled” figures. For over sixty years, siblings Lidia and Romano Levi have produced the celebrated Grappa della Donna Selvatica, blending artistry with tradition of distilling grappa. Lidia’s herbal infusions and Romano’s hand-drawn labels have turned their grappa into prized collectibles, displayed in top restaurants and museums. Romano’s small, cluttered factory using pomace from notable Piedmontese winemakers, with each bottle featuring his unique artistic labels.

Where to Eat and Sleep

Ostu Didjun
On the hilltop village of Castagnito, deep in Roero country on the west bank of the Tanaro river, Ostu Didjun greets visitors with a life-sized red toy soldier and a comically ironic name that translates to “fasting tavern.” Yet, nothing about this place is what it seems. Managed by the charismatic Luciano Marsaglia, the restaurant offers an unparalleled dining experience steeped in old-world charm. Its outdoor area, strewn with hazelnut shells and empty magnum bottles of Piedmontese wine, sets the scene for a place beloved by locals and wine producers alike. Luciano’s establishment, open only on weeknights with no lunch or weekend service, eschews a traditional menu dictated verbally, just like the old times in the Italian trattorie. Luciano personally delivers dishes and selects wines served exclusively in magnum formats, which are shared among tables. The food, reminiscent of cherished family meals, and the lively, communal atmosphere created by Luciano’s animated presence ensure an unforgettable, quintessentially Italian dining experience.

L’Argaj
Across the road from the entrance to Castiglione Falletto lies the restaurant L’Argaj, a name that captures the satisfaction of a wholesome meal in Piedmontese. This feeling is vividly illustrated by a logo featuring a smiling mouth with full cheeks. Andrea and Valentina, formerly of La Locanda del Centro, created Argaj to express their culinary vision. Andrea, a chef trained by Enrico Crippa and the son of restaurateurs, blends innovation with Langarola traditions, crafting unique, modern dishes that revive nearly forgotten ingredients like Zizzona and Coniglio Grigio di Carmagnola. Valentina, who met Andrea at Piola in Alba, oversees the dining room, which they carefully designed together. The ambiance is enhanced by wall drawings that depict the landscape of Castiglione Falletto, with its fields, vineyards, and woods. In fine weather, the rooftop terrace offers stunning views of the Langhe, providing a perfect setting for outdoor dining.

Bottega dei Quattro Vini
Under the arch of the city hall palace, you can find Bottega dei Quattro Vini. Founded in 1983 by six local winemakers, this charming spot is perfect for enjoying an excellent glass of wine. The Bottega offers cozy comfort, allowing visitors to relax and savor the wines produced in Neive, including Barbera d’Alba, Barbaresco, Dolcetto d’Alba, and Moscato d’Asti. Besides wine, the shop sells local sweets like sweet-truffles, hazelnut cake, nougat, and fresh cookies made by students from the Arte Bianca Bakery School, as well as traditional treats from I Biscotti della Signora Brambilla. Take note of their Picnic della Zia, a delightful picnic basket for two priced at €30. It includes alpine cheese and salami, a bottle of white or red wine, a Piedmontese appetizer, and artisan breadsticks. Enjoy it in the scenic vineyards or right at the shop.

Hotel Relais Montemarino
Hotel Relais Montemarino, a luxurious hotel in the heart of the Langhe, emerged from the meticulous renovation of the ancient stone farmhouse “Cascina Bagnolo.” The central body, built over 200 years ago from Langa stone with wooden architraves, reflects a rich and fascinating past. The eastern section, originally for cellar and wood storage, combines bricks and stone, while a brick-columned porch with a wooden attic completes the structure. Named after the nearby hamlet, Montemarino symbolizes the deep bond with the area, with a logo featuring a centuries-old chestnut tree from the patio. Surrounded by orchards and vineyards, the Relais offers a heated indoor pool with exceptional views.