Discover Italy's Rich Viticultural Heritage: A Workshop on Autochthonous Grapes

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 7/22/2024

Discover Italy's Rich Viticultural Heritage: A Workshop on Autochthonous Grapes

Italy is a country of profound viticultural wealth, home to an astounding 545 registered autochthonous grape varieties. These grapes, each with its unique qualities and histories, reflect the diverse terroirs of Italy – the distinctive combination of soil, climate, and tradition that gives each wine its character. In recent years, Italian producers have begun reviving many of these ancient vines, some of which were nearly lost to time, to create wines that echo the traditions of old.

Understanding Autochthonous Grapes

Autochthonous refers to grape varieties that are indigenous to a specific area, uniquely adapted to its soil and climate. Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry (MIPAAF) has recognized over 350 of these varieties with “authorized” status, and more than 500 additional varieties are in circulation. These grapes tell the story of Italy’s deep-rooted viticultural heritage, with winemaking traditions that predate even the ancient Phoenicians, Etruscans, and Greeks, who were among the first to produce wine in Italy before the Romans expanded viticulture significantly.

The revival of these rare grape varieties is driven by the passion and dedication of Italian winemakers. These producers, deeply connected to their land and traditions, take bold steps to cultivate and vinify these grapes despite the economic uncertainties. Their commitment ensures that the rich tapestry of Italy’s vinicultural heritage continues to thrive.

Workshop Overview

I am excited to present a comprehensive workshop exploring Italy’s autochthonous grape varieties. Drawing on my extensive experience and deep appreciation for wines, I will guide participants through an educational and sensory journey across Italy’s diverse wine regions. As a food and wine critic and sommelier, I have carefully selected three representative wines from each region to showcase the diversity and richness of Italy’s viticultural landscape.

Daily Tasting Sessions and Visits to Umbrian Wineries

Daily Learning and Tasting Sessions: Each day, in the morning, there will be an informative presentation about the wines of four selected regions. Participants will then taste 12 wines daily, three from each region, culminating in a total of 60 wines by the end of the workshop. These tastings will highlight the distinctive flavors and stories of Italy's 20 regions.

Winery Visits in Umbria: Afternoons will be spent visiting local Umbrian wineries, allowing participants to observe the winemaking process firsthand and appreciate the region's stunning landscapes.

Day Trip to Three Tuscan Castles Producing Wine

As a neighboring region to Umbria, Tuscany is just a couple of hours away. Participants will enjoy an all-day trip to Tuscany, visiting some of its most renowned vineyards in Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Fiorentini to sample their exceptional wines.

Castello di Brolio has been owned by the Ricasoli family since 1141. For over nine centuries, they have played a pivotal role in Tuscany's wine history, notably in the creation of Chianti Classico. Baron Bettino Ricasoli, a former Prime Minister of Italy, formulated the original Chianti Classico. Since 1993, the 32nd Baron Francesco Ricasoli has led the company, continuing to innovate in viticulture.

Castello di Brolio

Castello di Meleto was once the Abbey of Coltibuono, a Benedictine monastery from the 11th century. This historic site has witnessed a rich tapestry of ownership changes, from noble families to military troops, enduring the harsh elements of time. In 1968, Viticola Toscana, a society founded by Gianni Mazzocchi to enhance the area’s wine-growing potential, purchased the castle and its 1,400 hectares of surrounding land. This acquisition was part of “Operation Vineyards,” an initiative akin to modern crowdfunding.

Castello di Meleto

Torre a Cona, a magnificent 18th-century villa, stands along an ancient road from Florence to Rignano sull’Arno surrounded by 200 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, woods, and gardens. Originally known as Quona Castle, it dates back to the 11th century. Though wars razed much of the structure, its impressive 12th-century tower still stands. Rebuilding occurred from the 12th to the 18th century, culminating in the Rinuccini family’s ownership. They aimed to create a mansion rivaling Florence’s Palazzo Pitti. In 1848, the villa was sold to the Trivulzio counts, then to Baron Padoa in 1882. The Rossi di Montelera family, led by Napoleone Rossi di Montelera, acquired Torre a Cona in 1935, seeking a villa with a thriving agricultural landscape.

Torre a Cona

60+ Wines in the Tasting

This tasting features over 60 wines, primarily from small producers, including rare ancient varieties with fascinating histories. Among the highlights are Italy's iconic DOCG red wines made from indigenous grapes: Barolo with Nebbiolo, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montepulciano with Sangiovese, and Amarone della Valpolicella, a rich dry red made from partially dried Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes.

Participants will also encounter lesser-known, hard-to-find grapes like Ruzzese, which dates back to the 6th century AD on the Ligurian coast. Traditionally used for passito wine, Ruzzese was highly prized in Roman markets and even reached the papal table in the Vatican, favored by Pope Paul III Farnese. Another notable papal favorite was Asprinio, a white grape from Campania known for its vines that grow up to 10 meters high.

It's also fascinating to taste Nas-cëtta, or Nascetta, a semi-aromatic white grape from the small town of Novello in Piedmont, Italy. Cultivated in the area for centuries, this variety nearly went extinct. However, the dedication of a few Novello wine producers saved it. After tasting a few bottles of Nascetta from the 1986 vintage, they recognized its potential to become one of the region's finest white wines. Thanks to their efforts, Nascetta was revived in 1993.

This tasting offers a unique opportunity to sample exceptional wines that are seldom available on the market. Don't miss this chance to explore the rich diversity and history of Italy's wines!