Unveiling Trentino: Agronomical and Oenological Sustainabilty Exploration in the Italian Alps

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 7/23/2024

Unveiling Trentino: Agronomical and Oenological Sustainabilty Exploration in the Italian Alps

Located between the shimmering waters of Lake Garda and the majestic peaks of the Dolomites at the heart of the Italian Alps, Trentino reveals an enchanting story of nature, culture, and tradition. Recently, the Consorzio di Tutela Vini del Trentino (Consortium for the Protection of Trentino Wines) orchestrated an immersive tour dedicated to unveiling the essence of Trentino’s local food and wine. From the robust flavors of artisanal cheeses to the refined notes of local wines and the potent character of grappa, it was a sensory journey that highlighted the region’s commitment to preserving biodiversity in its vineyards and promoting sustainable practices. As part of this enlightening experience, the Science Museum of Trento hosted the presentation of the second Sustainability Report of the Trentino Wine Consortium, underscoring the critical importance of sustainability in today’s viticultural landscape.

Trentino: The Green Heart of the Italian Alps

Trentino, located in the northernmost part of Italy, is a region marked by its dramatic mountainous terrain, making it one of the most visually striking areas in the Alps. This region, together with Alto Adige/Südtirol, is renowned for its towering peaks, including the Ortles-Cevedale and Brenta Dolomites, with elevations reaching up to 3,900 meters. To the south, the landscape transitions dramatically to the shores of Lake Garda, which lie at just 70 meters above sea level, highlighting the region's striking geographical contrasts.

The climate of Trentino reflects its diverse topography, offering a range of weather patterns from sub-Mediterranean near Lake Garda to harsh continental conditions in the high valleys. The southern areas experience milder winters and moderately warm summers, influenced by the lake's presence, while the central and northern regions face more extreme temperature variations. The high-altitude areas, above 1,800 meters, exhibit a more severe Alpine climate, with colder winters and shorter, rainier summers, supporting a unique flora adapted to these conditions.

Trentino is also notable for its significant protected areas, which cover approximately 20% of the region. Among the most prominent are the Adamello-Brenta and Paneveggio-Pale di San Martino Natural Parks, which safeguard large sections of the Dolomites. These parks, along with smaller reserves and Eco-museums like Lagorai and Vanoi, play a crucial role in preserving Trentino’s diverse ecosystems and ensuring the conservation of its natural beauty for future generations.

Trentino's Distinctive Alpine Influence on Viticulture

Trentino's Alpine environment profoundly influences its winemaking, creating a unique interplay between its diverse landscapes and varied climates. Stretching from the shores of Lake Garda to the terraced vineyards of the Cembra Valley, the region's geography and numerous lakes foster a range of microclimates within a compact area. This diversity enhances the terroir of Trentino wines, blending the characteristics of both international grape varieties and indigenous species such as Nosiola, Marzemino, and Teroldego Rotaliano. The result is a rich spectrum of wines that reflect the complexity of Trentino's natural environment.

The winemaking tradition in Trentino is supported by a combination of large cooperatives and passionate small producers, both of whom contribute to the region’s distinctive wine identity. This collaborative effort is encapsulated in the five DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) designations: Trentino, Trento, Teroldego Rotaliano, Valdadige, and Casteller, as well as two IGT (Geographical Indication) categories: Vigneti delle Dolomiti and Vallagarina. These designations ensure the preservation and celebration of Trentino’s unique vinous heritage. With over 10,000 hectares dedicated to vineyards, comprising 74% white grapes and 26% black grapes, Trentino cultivates 63 different vine varieties. This rich diversity, alongside the region’s favorable soils and climatic conditions, allows for the production of exceptional, inimitable wines.

Consorzio di Tutela Vini del Trentino

The Consorzio di Tutela Vini del Trentino plays a crucial role in protecting, promoting, and enhancing the region’s wine industry. Among its responsibilities is educating consumers about the Certified Provenance of Protected Wine Brands and Trentino's Protected Geographical Area. This educational effort is vital for ensuring that the value and authenticity of Trentino wines are well communicated.

The Consortium’s strength lies in its collaborative approach, encompassing over 90% of Trentino's wine producers and winemakers. This effectiveness stems not only from its legal mandate to protect wine designations but also from its dedication to upholding a strong and credible identity for Trentino wines. This unity is crucial for promoting the region’s wines on both local and global stages. Additionally, 5,826 Trentino winemakers have achieved SQNPI (Sistema di Qualità Nazionale di Produzione Integrata or National Quality System of Integrated Production) certification, a recognition by the European Community. This certification reflects their commitment to integrated and sustainable production practices, ensuring that agricultural products are produced with minimal synthetic chemicals and in alignment with ecological and economic principles, thereby delivering high-quality wines from Trentino’s vineyards to consumers.

Rovere della Luna: In Search of Biodiversity in the Vineyards Through Melittology

The Cantina Sociale or Cooperative of Rovere della Luna, managed by Maurizio Bottura, exemplifies sustainable viticulture with a legacy of excellence since its establishment in 1919. As the oldest cooperative in Trentino, it includes 285 members and 460 hectares of vineyards, supported by the Consorzio Vini del Trentino for sustainability certification. The region’s unique non-clayey soil and pergola training system enhance viticulture quality. Situated between 200 and 950 meters above sea level, the vineyards benefit from year-round sun exposure. Diverse terrains allow for optimal grape cultivation: gravel and limestone plots are ideal for red wine grapes, while rich alluvial soil supports white grape varieties, ensuring each thrives in its perfect environment.

In the vineyards of Rovere della Luna, Paolo Fontana and Livia Zanotelli, apidologists from the Edmund Mach Foundation, along with Maurizio Bottura, the director of the Foundation’s technology transfer center, shared their expertise on biodiversity. The Edmund Mach Foundation (FEM) is a renowned agricultural school and research hub with a 14-hectare campus in San Michele all'Adige, featuring laboratories, greenhouses, classrooms, and extensive cultivated and natural land. With a rich legacy of 150 years, FEM merges teaching, research, and technological transfer to offer a unique educational experience and building a global scientific network that advances agricultural practices and supports local environments.

In Trentino, the continuous vineyard landscapes, bordered by woods and the Adige River, foster high insect biodiversity, with native insects helping control parasitic species. Bee hotels in vineyards attract solitary bees, enhancing overall biodiversity and ecosystem health by supporting the pollination of cover crops and wildflowers. This improves soil health and attracts other beneficial insects that naturally control pests, reducing the need for chemical pesticides. The connection between entomology and viticulture is crucial for vineyard sustainability.

Techniques like sexual confusion, which involves spreading female pheromones to manage pests, are costlier but offer greater environmental benefits compared to traditional phytosanitary methods. Fifteen cooperatives in the region use this method, covering 90% of the territory. BeeOmonitoring uses apoidea to measure biodiversity and pollution through pollen analysis, indicating a healthy environment. Additionally, downy mildew and Botrytis cinerea can be controlled using leaf harvesters, which create favorable microclimates for grape bunches, reducing fungal infections by 20%. This method removes the leaves that cover the grapes, cleans the floral residue, and prevents the fungi from developing.

Fondazione Edmund Mach

The history of Fondazione Edmund Mach (FEM) began on January 12, 1874, when the Tyrolean Regional Diet of Innsbruck established an agricultural school with an experimental station in San Michele all'Adige. Dr. Edmund Mach, an Austrian scholar, was appointed to lead the Institute, which quickly became a model institute known for its excellence in viticulture. Subsequent leaders, including Professor Enrico Avanzi and researcher Rebo Rigotti, furthered the Institute's mission, with Avanzi making significant scientific contributions and Rigotti developing the Rebo grape variety. After World War II, Bruno Kessler played a crucial role in modernizing the Institute and enhancing its European collaborations, ensuring it adapted to contemporary challenges while maintaining its tradition of excellence.

The foundation’s cellar, situated within a historic 12th-century Augustinian monastery, stands as a testament to the fusion of ancient architecture and modern winemaking. Carved into rock, the original cellars preserve a millennia-old tradition, housing barrels that connect the past with present-day practices. The facility boasts a cutting-edge department for producing classic method sparkling wines and processes the estate’s finest grapes to create around 30 distinctive wines, including Kerner, Nosiola, Riesling, Incrocio Manzoni, and Cabernet Franc. These wines, which reflect the region's unique character, are available for tasting and purchase at the on-site shop. By blending respect for terroir with innovative techniques, the winery ensures a seamless integration of tradition and modernity.

From Grass to Cheese: Trentino's Dairy Delights

A guided tour with Albatros, a cooperative that deals with environmental studies and analyses, through the meadows of the Predazzo countryside unveiled the profound connection between grass, milk, and cheese. This enlightening journey provided a deep understanding of the entire process behind the creation of cheese. The adventure began at the Moser farm, where Maria Letizia, along with Mariapia Morandini and her family, explained how cow feeding influences milk quality.

Observing the milking process and learning about the modern innovations defining today’s stables was truly eye-opening. The Moser family’s commitment to animal welfare was evident in their meticulous care for their herd of 110 cows, of various breeds and yields. Advanced milking techniques were employed to ensure the health of the animals and the safety of the milk. This gentle and consistent process not only collected the valuable milk but also helped prevent painful mastitis in the cows’ udders. This careful attention to the cows was essential for producing the renowned Puzzone di Moena PDO cheese.

After seeing the milking process, a cheese tasting with wine pairing followed suit at the Bistrot of the Caseificio Sociale Predazzo & Moena. The selection featured local cheeses such as the Gradevole di Predazzo, a delicate and soft pasteurized goat’s cheese that melted in the mouth with hints of milk and mountain butter. The tasting also included Puzzone di Moena DOP, a semi-cooked, semi-hard cow’s milk cheese aged for at least 90 days, and Trentingrana DOP, a hard cheese produced in limited quantities using milk from mountain pastures (malga), known for its intense and rich flavor. Each cheese was paired with Trentino wines of Müller Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir and Lagrein, presented by producers from Tenuta Gottardi, Cembra Cantina di Montagna, and Villa Corniole.

Photos of Caseificio Sociale Predazzo & Moena from their websi

Palazzo Roccabruna

Palazzo Roccabruna is a Renaissance residence, dating back to the time of the Council of Trent (1545-1563), located in the historic city centre. Having become part of the real estate assets of the Trento Chamber of Commerce, Palazzo Roccabruna is today the headquarters of the organisation's territorial promotion activities. Its rooms house the Provincial Enoteca of Trentino, a structure dedicated to the valorisation of Trentino food and wine and open to the public for tastings. In the rooms on the ground floor, it is possible to sit at the tables and choose from a list of Trentino wines by the glass to pair with the gastronomic specialties of the area (cheeses, especially mountain cheeses and cured meats).

At the Enoteca, Alessandro Marzadro, head of the Distilleria Marzadro and president of the Istituto di Tutela Grappa del Trentino, discussed the history of grappa, tracing its evolution from medicinal liquid to a refined and celebrated spirit. Marzadro emphasized that a high-quality grappa is characterized by its pleasantness and complex aromas, countering the misconception that it is merely a digestive. Grappa is not a digestive but a meditation drink.

Trentino Grappa, crafted exclusively from pomace sourced from grapes cultivated and distilled within Trentino, boasts a minimum alcohol content of 37% and is distinguished by its Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) mark. This spirit’s origins are rooted in sustainability, utilizing pomace waste from local grape harvests to eliminate the need for additional agricultural land. Established in 1969, the Istituto di Tutela Grappa del Trentino oversees the authenticity of this unique product, representing 24 members, including 20 local distillers. The Institute ensures that Trentino Grappa, which constitutes 10% of Italy’s grappa production, is produced solely with pomace from grapes grown in Trentino and bears the specific mark of origin and the designation "Trentino Grappa."

At Palazzo Roccabruna, we enjoyed a walk-around self-tasting event featuring 20 different Trentino grappas alongside 115 labels of white, rosé, and red wines. The wines were crafted from various grape varieties, including Kerner, Nosiola, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Manzoni Bianco, Solaris, Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Marzemino, Rebo, Sennen, and Lagrein, highlighting the diverse and rich offerings of the Trentino region.

The 2nd Sustainability Report of the Consortium

The Consorzio di Tutela Vini del Trentino unveiled its 2nd Sustainability Report at the MUSE – Science Museum of Trento, marking a significant milestone in the region's commitment to sustainable viticulture. The event, attended by institutional representatives, sector experts, and wine industry entrepreneurs, was moderated by journalist Linda Pisani and underscored the importance of sustainability in the Trentino wine sector. Albino Zenatti, President of the Consortium, highlighted the long journey towards sustainability that began in the 1990s, expressing gratitude to past and present leaders for their visionary efforts. The report, presented by Stefano Rizzi and Lara Bontempelli, revealed that the Consortium comprises 91 member wineries and agricultural companies, managing 10,299 hectares of vineyards, with 15% situated above 500 meters. Notably, 13% of these companies are certified organic, and 80% are certified SQNPI, reflecting a robust commitment to sustainable practices.

The event featured a range of perspectives on sustainability from industry leaders and experts. Italo Gilmozzi emphasized the need for closer collaboration between public administration and agriculture, while Giulia Zanotelli highlighted the importance of integrating hydrogeological defense with agricultural practices. Graziano Molon, the Consortium’s General Director, drew an analogy between music and wine, emphasizing how both craft and knowledge transform raw materials into sources of joy. Experts such as Rossella Sobrero and Lucrezia Lamastra discussed the significance of transparency and best practices in sustainability. Andrea Terraneo and Lorenzo Libera noted the growing demand for sustainable wines and the role of cooperative systems in enhancing sustainability. The event concluded with a call to action from Albino Zenatti, focusing on the themes of path, quality, and communication, and emphasizing the Consortium’s ongoing role as a model of excellence in sustainable viticulture on both national and international stages.

Hotel and Restaurants at Trento

Villa Madruzzo
Villa Madruzzo is a four-star hotel located 4 km from the historic center of Trento, set amidst the rolling green hills. The property is centered around a 16th-century noble residence and features two distinct areas: the Classic area, which maintains the hotel's historical character, and the Belvedere area, which includes a modern wellness center. The Villa Madruzzo Restaurant offers a menu of national and Trentino cuisine.

Ristorante La Cacciatora
The La Cacciatora restaurant, situated in the heart of the Piana Rotaliana and surrounded by the Dolomites, has been a destination for traditional cuisine since 1850. Known for its classic Trentino dishes, game, and the renowned boiled meat trolley, the restaurant has also expanded its menu to include a variety of fish dishes and contemporary options, catering to diverse tastes. The philosophy of 'home made' extends to every aspect of the menu, featuring fresh pasta, cured meats, smoked salmon, and homemade desserts. Chef Paolo, dedicated to genuine cuisine, ensures that every dish reflects a commitment to simplicity and taste, using only the freshest ingredients sourced from local producers. Daniela, with her dedication and expertise, has curated a wine list that not only highlights the finest Trentino wines but also includes over 300 labels from across Italy and the best international selections.

Ristorante Borgo Nuovo
Located in the heart of Trento, Borgonuovo Restaurant, overseen by Altin Plaku and his wife Stefania, offers a unique dining experience centered around passion, freshness, and innovation. Altin manages the dining room, while Stefania leads the kitchen team, crafting dishes that are both artistic and inventive. Known for its excellent fish appetizers and diverse menu, the restaurant provides a memorable culinary journey with creative flavor combinations and impeccable presentations. The establishment, overlooking Piazza Garzetti, also features a distinct space on the side street of Prima Androna, adding to its charm and appeal.