Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 9/11/2024

Four Generations of Badia di Morrona: A Tuscan Viticulture Journey Through Time

On one of those quintessentially hot Italian summer days, with temperatures soaring to 40°C, I found myself seeking refuge in the cool tuff stones of the 11th-century abbey at Badia di Morrona before venturing out to walk under the sun through their sprawling vineyards in Tuscany. My guide, speaking tirelessly and passionately about the history of the abbey and his family, was Lorenzo, a fourth-generation member of the Gaslini Alberti family. Badia di Morrona is located between Pisa and Volterra in Tuscany, the estate spans 600 hectares, where forests of cypress, holm oak, and oak gradually give way to 40 hectares of olive groves, 110 hectares of vineyards, and scattered guest villas, all gently rolling along the slopes near the Cascina River.

The History of the 11th-Century Abbey of Morrona

Badia di Morrona, which starts with the stunning abbey, was founded at the dawn of the 1st millennium AD by Hugh of the Cadolingi. Initially managed by Cluniac Benedictine monks and later by Camaldolese monks, the abbey became a spiritual and cultural center. In 1482, it transitioned into the summer residence of the Bishops of Volterra. Following the unification of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861, and the subsequent confiscation of Church property, the abbey passed through various estates and families including the Canessa family of Livorno until it was acquired by the present owners, the Gaslini Alberti Counts in 1939.

Four Generations of the Gaslini Alberti Family

The Gaslini family’s connection to Badia di Morrona began in 1939. Prior to this, brothers Egidio and Gerolamo Gaslini had worked together in Genoa’s national oil industry. However, in 1933, they decided to part ways in their business endeavors. Gerolamo continued to expand the family enterprise and later founded the renowned Giannina Gaslini Pediatric Hospital in Genoa, while Egidio pursued other ventures until his untimely passing.

In the late 1930s, Italo and Mario Gaslini, Egidio’s sons, decided to invest in agriculture, and they chose Badia di Morrona. At the time, the estate was made up of two distinct and separate farms, each about 100 hectares, with the abbey divided into two parts. The ownership and management of the church were shared according to a rule of alternation between the two properties. All of this continued for several decades until Egidio Gaslini, who had by then succeeded his father Italo and uncle Mario in managing the estate, seized the opportunity to reunify the property in the early 1980s.

In the late 1980s, Egidio Gaslini, after adopting the Alberti surname following his adoption by the last descendant of the Genoese branch of the Leon Battista Alberti family, embarked on a mission to transform Badia di Morrona into a center of excellence. He expanded the estate to its current 600 hectares, replanting the vineyards and increasing their area to 110 hectares. The abandoned farmhouses, once home to farmers and sharecroppers, were carefully restored and converted into agriturismo accommodations. Egidio also extended the olive groves and made significant investments in solar power, enhancing the estate’s sustainability efforts. He initiated the renovation and expansion of the winery and the barrique cellar, historically housed in an abbey annex. By the early 2000s, the winemaking facility had been relocated to a new, state-of-the-art winery in Terricciola, marking a new chapter for the estate’s production capabilities.

Following Egidio’s passing in 2015, the estate was passed on to his two children, Filippo and Alessandra Gaslini, who continue their father’s vision of excellence. Together, they are committed to preserving the family’s legacy while driving the estate forward into the future. They are joined by the fourth generation, Niccolò, son of Filippo, and Francesca and Lorenzo, children of Alessandra, ensuring the future of Badia di Morrona remains in dedicated family hands.

The Gaslini Alberti Family, from left: Lorenzo, Filippo, Francesca and Niccoló

The Three Iconic Vineyards

Years of experimentation at Badia di Morrona have revealed distinct characteristics in several vineyards, each shaped by diverse subsoils and a unique microclimate. Cooling marine breezes moderate the heat and keep the vines dry, while the soils form a rich mosaic, clay interspersed with sand, soft greystone, river pebbles, alberese marl, and slabs of travertine. Fossils from ancient seabeds serve as reminders of the valley’s deep geological history.

N’Antìa Vineyard
N’Antìa is a prized cuvée from a single 30-year-old vineyard, one of the estate’s historic plots. Its 6 hectares of clay and travertine soil produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, with vines sloping southeast toward the ancient abbey, where the grapes were first vinified, maintaining a strong connection to the estate’s origins.

Vigna Alta Vineyard
Perched on the highest hill of the estate, Vigna Alta spans 8.5 hectares of compact, fossil-rich soil. Alternating parcels of Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Canaiolo thrive here, though only the best Sangiovese grapes are selected for the prestigious Vigna Alta cru, bottled under the Terre di Pisa DOC.

Disperato Vineyard
Located on the estate’s eastern side, the 10-hectare Vigna Disperato is primarily planted with Syrah. Despite its name, this vineyard is remarkable for its large fossilized shells, which emerge from the soil during tilling. Its finest grapes produce the IGT Toscana Taneto, a wine noted for its mineral-rich, spicy profile.

These three vineyards stretch across the estate, from N’Antìa in the east to VignaAlta and Disperato in the west, serving as key landmarks. Other notable plots include Vigna La Crocina, where grapes for Chianti I Sodi del Paretaio are grown, and Vigne del Lago, home to Vermentino for the floral white wine Felciaio.

Sustainability defines Badia di Morrona’s approach, with practices like integrated pest management, organic fertilization using local livestock manure, and alternating rows of fava beans to enrich the soil. Hand-harvested grapes from these vineyards are meticulously cared for, reflecting the family’s deep respect for the land.

The Wine Collection

It’s interesting to learn that the label designs are inspired by Gaslini Alberti family’s private collection of maiolica, or earthenware tiles, from Genova, along with the family crest. Badia di Morrona produces a range of wines, ranging from the floral and fruit-forward white and rosé to the fuller-bodied reds and vin santo. However, the estate’s collection is best defined by three signature wines: N’Antia, VignaAlta, and Taneto, each embodying the unique terroir and winemaking philosophy of the estate.

Felcaiao 2023
Felcaiao, made from pure Vermentino and vinified in stainless steel for 6 months, stands out for its brightness and salinity, Mediterranean notes and freshness. It’s a refreshing white wine that showcases the characteristics of the terroir in the glass.

Vivaja 2023
Another wine celebrated for its approachability and freshness, the Vivaja, vinified in steel, expresses the delicate fruity personality of Sangiovese in rosé form. An explosion of almost candied strawberries and raspberries both on the nose and mouth, light creaminess, characteristic sapidity and long finish.

I Sodi del Paretaio Chianti DOCG 2022
At the heart of Badia di Morrona’s range are its Chiantis, with I Sodi del Paretaio representing the estate’s vineyards in their purest form. The vintage version is primarily Sangiovese (85%), complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. It ferments in steel tanks and matures for 10 months in concrete, ensuring a balanced and approachable style. Ruby red, with good approachability, pronounced Mediterranean shrubs and spices with red fruits, solid line of acidity that takes the sip until the long finish.

I Sodi del Paretaio Chianti Riserva DOCG 2020
The Riserva, on the other hand, is a pure Sangiovese, known for its soft and mature tannins. Half ages for 18 months in large 44hl French oak barrels and the other half in barrique, followed by a brief rest in concrete before bottling. This presents dark fruits underlined with almost candied ripe blueberries with notable sapidity in the mouth, acidity and silky tannins.

Taneto 2019
Taneto was first introduced in 2004 which completes the trio of signature wines of Badia di Morrona. This blend of Syrah, with a touch of Sangiovese and Merlot, reflects a more transalpine style. Each year, around 20,000 bottles are produced from some of the estate’s richest fossil-filled parcels, such as Vigna Disperato, which impart a distinct mineral and spicy character to the wine. Full ruby red in color with a pleasant roundness and softness in the mouth, mature red and black fruits with medium tannins. It is reaching its most expressive phase but will surely surprise further in age. After fermenting in steel, Taneto matures for 12 months in barrique, with a small percentage of the Sangiovese aging in large 25-hectoliter French oak barrels. It then rests briefly in concrete vats before spending another 10 months refining in the bottle.

N’Antia 2022
N’Antia is a Bordeaux-style blend, was first introduced in 1992 and marked a major turning point for the estate. Produced in limited quantities, around 8,000 bottles annually, N’Antia embodies Duccio Gaslini Alberti’s vision of expressing the region through classic Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Over time, winemaking techniques have evolved, and today the wine ferments in steel, matures for 15 months in 225-liter French oak barrels, spends a brief period in concrete vats, and completes its journey with 10 months of bottle aging. Discretely candied dark fruit on the nose, delicate hint of sweetness, allowing the other elements of the bouquet to come through in a balanced way and depth to the aromatic profile, complex and elegant with very good acidity that keeps sip company until its long finish.

VignaAlta Terre di Pisa DOC Sangiovese
It showcases the estate’s finest Sangiovese. First produced in 1994, this wine was crafted to highlight the essence of Tuscany’s signature grape. The wine ferments in steel, then matures for 24 months in 25-hectoliter French oak barrels, with a final 3 months of resting in concrete before bottling. Like N’Antia, VignaAlta is produced in small quantities, with around 8,000 bottles released each year. The result is a fresh, elegant, and well-balanced Sangiovese that reflects the vineyard’s sandy soils. Dried spices are and black fruits on the nose with the emergence of red berries in the mouth, very good acidity and well-integrated smooth tannins.

Vin Santo del Chianti DOC 2016
The typical grape varieties for Vin Santo are Trebbiano and Malvasia. However, Badia di Morrona also uses Colombana, a variety native to this area. The wine is crafted in the most traditional method, with the grapes left to dry on reed mats until February to concentrate the sugars as water evaporates. The must is then aged in 110-liter caratelli (small barrels) for a minimum of four years. The wine presents a brilliant golden straw-yellow color with amber reflections. Its aromas are rich, featuring intense notes of dried apricot and almonds. On the palate, it’s dense and sweet, perfectly balanced by a lively acidity and impressive persistence.

Locanda La Fornace

As an integral part of Badia di Morrona’s hospitality, Locanda La Fornace offers a complete enogastronomic journey through the flavors of the region. Nestled in a serene oasis surrounded by woodlands, the restaurant, named after the farm it stands on, serves as a showcase for Tuscan culinary traditions. Featured in the menu are a variety of local specialties, all prepared with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, including the estate’s own extra virgin olive oil and wines. Highlights from the menu include homemade fresh pasta, juicy Fiorentina steaks grilled on a large outdoor barbecue, and traditional dishes featuring game from the estate’s reserve.

Both photos are from an intimate lunch setting in the cellar, surrounded by aging barrels and the rich history of the estate, paired with exceptional wines from Badia di Morrona.