Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa: A Blend of History, Hospitality and Luxury in Tuscany

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 9/26/2024

Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa: A Blend of History, Hospitality and Luxury in Tuscany

One of the most remarkable aspects of Italy is the revival of centuries-old monuments, carefully restored into places of exceptional hospitality, where modern luxury merges with the soul and history of the location. Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa exemplifies this transformation, nestled in the heart of Cortona, an ancient city that was once part of the Etruscan Dodecapoli, within a beautifully restored 15th-century monastery. My stay at this boutique hotel was defined by warm hospitality, a rejuvenating spa experience, and a culinary journey through Tuscany’s flavors, complemented by Cortona’s local wines, all surrounded by the rich heritage of the region.

The hotel's history is woven into every corner. From the beamed ceilings and restored frescoes to the imposing corridors and serene loggias, the Monastero di Cortona preserves the soul of its 15th-century origins while offering the luxury and comfort of a modern 5-star establishment. Its 36 rooms and suites, once the cells of monks, each carry their own distinct character, with features like frescoed ceilings, fireplaces, and sweeping valley views. Opened in 2019, after years of careful restoration work conducted in accordance with the guidelines of the Monuments Superintendence of Arezzo, the project was overseen by a team of architects and personally by engineer Enzo Poli.

A true highlight of the Monastero di Cortona experience is its Gli Affreschi Restaurant, a dining space where tradition meets innovation in the heart of Tuscan cuisine. More on that later, but it’s safe to say that this restaurant, with its expertly crafted dishes and local wine pairings, adds an unforgettable layer to the overall experience at the hotel.

During my stay, I had the pleasure of relaxing at the Bagni di Bacco Spa, a tranquil haven housed in what was once the monastery’s ancient water cistern. The spa, designed with inspiration from ancient Roman baths, offers everything from whirlpools to saunas, steam rooms, and massage treatments, creating the perfect atmosphere for unwinding. The level of care and attention from the staff made the entire spa experience even more special, leaving you both relaxed and revitalized.

At the center of the hotel is a quiet garden with a pool, situated on a terrace that overlooks the Val di Chiana. Once used as the friars' garden, it now offers a peaceful setting for guests to unwind. The terrace is furnished with sunbeds, providing a comfortable spot for reading, resting, or simply enjoying the surrounding calm. There is also an unheated plunge pool, offering a simple way to cool off and relax. It’s a quiet, natural space that invites you to slow down and take in the tranquil atmosphere.

Beyond the luxury amenities, it’s the people at Monastero di Cortona who truly make this place stand out. The staff, from the warm welcome at check-in to the attentive service throughout my stay, made me feel like a valued guest. Their passion for creating an exceptional experience is clear in everything they do, ensuring that every need is met with care and thoughtfulness. The hotel embraces the philosophy of "All guests, never customers."

Gli Affreschi Restaurant

In 2023, Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa introduced Gli Affreschi, an intimate restaurant named for the frescoes uncovered beneath plaster during the restoration of the monastery. Some experts believe these frescoes may depict scenes from the 1260 Battle of Montaperti between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, adding historical depth to the refined dining experience. With just 18 seats, the restaurant offers personalized attention and a focused, carefully curated menu.

At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Michele Ricci, a native of San Sepolcro in the province of Arezzo. Ricci’s passion for cooking began at home and was honed through formal culinary training with renowned mentors such as Gualtiero Marchesi, Luigi Sartini, and Paolo Lopriore, along with experiences in Michelin-starred restaurants. At Gli Affreschi, Chef Ricci's approach emphasizes seasonality and simplicity, using carefully selected ingredients from renowned Tuscan artisans such as De Magi for charcuterie, Gelateria 7 Voglie for gelato, and Longino & Cardinal for bread, meat, and fish. His dishes honor the region’s culinary roots while incorporating modern techniques that enhance the purity, freshness, and authenticity of each plate.

The Gli Affreschi brigade (from L to R): Ilario – Chef de Rang, Bryan – Chef de Partie, Michele Ricci – Executive Chef, Taziana Lai – Maitre and Sommelier, and Claudio – Head Barman

Rooted in local tradition, Ricci’s true specialties pay homage to his homeland. Dishes like pappa al pomodoro, served as both an amuse-bouche and inside plin pasta shaped into a red tomato, and pici, a hand-rolled Tuscan pasta, bring regional flavors to life. His take on cacio e pepe, paired with a Cortona saffron velouté and pepper foam, elevates a classic dish to a delicate version. Other local favorites include chicken liver pâté with apricots, Cortona vermouth gel, and salted cantuccio, as well as the beef sirloin with potato millefeuille and herb ash, evoking the rustic flavors of the Tuscan countryside. The venison filet, cooked to its tender perfection with spinach, Jerusalem artichoke, and juniper sauce is another standout.

Top: Pappa al pomodoro / Bottom: Chicken liver paté, apricots, Cortona Vermouth gelee and salted cantucci biscuits

Chef Ricci also places special emphasis on vegetables, often making them the star of the dish. His vegetables from the garden plays with textures and colors, offering a creative take on seasonal produce. Desserts are no less impressive, with a modern take on the classic tiramisu, presented in three different consistencies.

Top: Homemade caio e pepe pici pasta with Cortona saffron and pepper foam / Bottom: Vegetables from the garden in different consistencies

The restaurant offers an à la carte menu with starters priced between €14 and €22, risotto and pasta dishes ranging from €22 to €28, and main courses from €16 to €36. Desserts are available at €13, with the Crepe Suzette with Gelato priced at €20. In addition to the à la carte options, there are two four-course tasting menus: "Tuscan Taste" (€80), which features land-based dishes, and "From The Sea" (€90), a seafood-focused menu that has earned high praise even in this inland region of Tuscany. Among the standout seafood dishes is the roasted squid with pea cream and squid ink, highlighting Chef Ricci’s ability to balance traditional flavors with modern flair.

Top: 65° slow cooked egg, panzanella, black summer truffle and puffed polenta / Bottom: Venison with spinach, Jerusalem artichoke and juniper sauce

The wine list, curated by Maitre and Sommelier Taziana Lai, features an impressive selection of around 300 labels and was recently awarded "One Glass" by Wine Spectator. It highlights the best of Tuscany, showcasing wines from Cortona, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, as well as renowned regions like Chianti and Bolgheri. The list also includes wines from across Italy, with selections from Piedmont, Veneto, Sicily, Abruzzo, and Puglia. However, my personal experience with Cortona wines was particularly exceptional, offering a true taste of the region.

The Spa Day

One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the relaxation at Monastero di Cortona is through their Spa Day option. For €180 per couple, you can unwind in one of the hotel’s classic rooms from 12:00 to 19:00, take a dip in the plunge pool, and enjoy access to the spa, complete with an aperitif to finish the day. As part of the package, there’s also a 10% discount at Gli Affreschi Restaurant, giving you the chance to extend the experience with lunch or dinner. It’s a quiet, comfortable way to enjoy the atmosphere of the hotel at your own pace.