Roots in Ligurian Vines: The Bosoni Family’s Vermentino Legacy at Lunae

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 9/16/2024

Roots in Ligurian Vines: The Bosoni Family’s Vermentino Legacy at Lunae

I must admit, I have never seen such a bustling winery in Italy as I did when I stepped into Ca' Lunae on a Saturday morning for my appointment with Diego Bosoni. Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century farmhouse, the space exudes Ligurian charm, with shelves brimming with local artisanal products from small producers and Lunae wines. The place was alive with activity, as visitors browsed and chatted in various languages, adding to the vibrant, international atmosphere. It felt as though the world had converged in this corner of Liguria. With faces full of determination, guests were eager to taste, purchase, and immerse themselves in the distinctive world of Lunae. It’s not something I see often. Then, Diego Bosoni appeared, representing the fifth generation of a family that has transformed this part of Liguria into a true enotourism masterpiece, promoting the unique character and tradition of Colli di Luni.

In the renovated farmhouse complex, a vibrant world thrives, one that elevates the concept of enotourism to new heights. As Diego leads me through the expansive grounds, each door reveals something unique. One area is dedicated to cooking classes, and on this particular day, a lively hen party had just finished learning to make traditional Ligurian pesto, enjoying lunch with their own creations. Then there’s the museum, a labor of love that took his father, Paolo Bosoni, 30 years to curate. It houses old local equipment used in viticulture, vintage photos of the family, and snapshots of farmers, women and children during harvests or working in their cellars and vineyards. The viticultural history of Liguria unfolds with each step. Though modernization has eased much of the back-breaking work of the past, the spirit of winemaking still reverberates through the museum’s walls.

Outside in the garden, beyond a small pond, gazebos and triangular shades are thoughtfully positioned to create perfect picnic spots nestled among the trees. It’s an ideal setting for guests to enjoy picnics paired with Lunae wines and local delicacies, turning a simple meal into a deeper connection with the land. Along with this experience, Lunae offers a liqueur-making laboratory and a restaurant where dishes made with local ingredients are served, each thoughtfully paired with their wines. The family encourages guests to go beyond just tasting; they invite you to fully immerse yourself in the beauty, flavors, and traditions of the entire region, making each visit a complete sensory experience.

Paolo Bosoni and His Family

Under the expert guidance of Paolo Bosoni, a master of Vermentino, Lunae has become a symbol of high-quality winemaking in the area. Born in a Vermentino vineyard in 1946, Paolo’s path in winemaking seemed predestined. He took over the family farm and transformed it into Cantine Lunae, now the region’s premier producer of Vermentino and a variety of other wines. The Bosoni family is deeply involved in the operation, with each member playing a key role: Paolo works with a team of oenologists, including his son Diego who is also an oenologist, while his brother Lucio manages the vineyards. His wife Antonella oversees the office, and their daughter Debora manages the visitor center and wine museum. Together, the family follows a core philosophy: quality is cultivated in the vineyard and preserved in the cellar through meticulous and respectful craftsmanship.

Diego Bosoni

Though the Bosoni family’s farming roots extend to various crops typical of past generations, it was Paolo who, in the 1960s, laid the foundation for Lunae’s focus on viticulture, honing in on indigenous grapes like Vermentino and emphasizing quality production. Recognizing the cultural significance of wine, Paolo shifted the farm’s direction entirely toward winemaking. His forward-thinking approach played a key role in the Colli di Luni region receiving its DOC status in 1989, solidifying its reputation for producing some of the finest Vermentino, a vision that continues to define Lunae’s legacy today.

Essentiae Lunae: The Liqueur Laboratory

The striking story of Essentua Lunae began when Diego, winemaker and oenologist of the family, met Fiorella Stoppa, a skilled artisan who had been mastering the craft of traditional liqueur-making since the 1970s. For years, Fiorella had run a small workshop in La Spezia, Liguria dedicated to researching and perfecting the region’s historic recipes.

In the early 2000s, Fiorella brought her expertise to Ca’Lunae, becoming the driving force behind the Essentiae laboratory. She personally oversaw each step of the production process for more than two decades, from preparing the infusions to hand-labeling each bottle. Together, Fiorella and Diego ensured that every liqueur is made with high quality, often locally sourced ingredients that are used only when in season. Following the ancient cold infusion method, they created their liqueurs without dyes or preservatives, preserving the natural integrity of each ingredient.

Chef Matteo Domenichini

Ostaia Ca' Lunae: The Restaurant

Bringing everything full circle is Ostaia, a restaurant where chef Matteo Domenichini breathes new life into traditional recipes, crafting a harmonious blend of flavors from both the sea and the hills. The menu, which changes monthly to reflect seasonal ingredients, is guided by the philosophy that the dishes complement, rather than overshadow, the wines of Lunae featured in the tasting menus. Open for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday by reservation, Ostaia offers two tasting menus, each dish thoughtfully paired with a wine, because, at this restaurant, wine is undoubtedly the star of the show.

Cantina Lunae

Lunae’s vineyards are situated in eastern Liguria, near the Apuan Alps, within the prestigious Colli di Luni DOC wine region. Since its conception, Lunae has grown to produce 450,000 bottles annually, with 80% sold in Italy and 20% exported internationally. The family cultivates 65 hectares of vineyards spread across 30 small parcels, the largest spanning just five hectares. They also partner with 100 small growers who contribute grapes from diverse altitudes and soil types, enriching the range and complexity of Lunae’s wines.

The vineyards of Lunae, divided into 30 small parcels, are situated in three zones with a variation of soil types and altitudes between the sea and the mountains, influencing the wine's characteristics that clearly define them and distinguish one from the other. The maritime vineyards, at sea level, have sandy loam soil and lie close to the sea. the foothill vineyards, at 100 meters above sea level have medium textured soil, whereas the hilly vineyards, located at the highest altitude between 250 to 300 meters above sea level, have soils that are rich in frame and texture. Lastly, the parcels managed by local contributing farmers are spread across varying altitudes and feature a diverse range of soil types, further enhancing the complexity of the vineyards.

Vermentino is the crown jewel of Lunae, with the Vermentino Riserva Etichetta Nera standing out for its exceptional structure and elegance. This wine, renowned for its aromas of wildflowers, herbs, and ripe fruit, consistently earns high acclaim. Paolo Bosoni proudly claims that Ligurian Vermentino's elegance is unparalleled, even as the variety gains recognition in Tuscany and Sardinia. Lunae’s other Vermentino offerings, particularly the Etichetta Grigia and Cavagino, are celebrated for capturing the essence of the land and showcasing their aging potential. Their flagship wine, Numero Chiuso, produced from two historic vineyards with a limited run of just 2,600 bottles, represents the success of a project that blends tradition with modern winemaking methods.

The New Contemporary Winery

In 2023, Lunae unveiled a state-of-the-art winery, the result of years of meticulous planning and construction, thoughtfully crafted with local materials to honor the rich heritage of the Ligurian region. Just a few hundred meters from the historic Ca’ Lunae farmhouse, the new facility greets visitors with a striking entrance, leading them along a path lined with indigenous grape varieties central to Lunae’s wines. Featuring a natural amphitheater inspired by the Roman ruins of Luni, the winery is a testament to the harmonious relationship between nature and winemaking. Seamlessly integrated into the landscape, it reflects the deep connection between the land and the people who work it.

The project, initiated in 2010, wasn’t intended to increase production but rather to enhance the overall quality of Lunae’s wines. Designed in collaboration with longtime friend and designer Andrea Del Sere, the winery’s modern aesthetic blends perfectly with its surroundings. Nearly invisible, the structure is built into the earth, with only essential elements emerging, covered by the same soil excavated during its construction. This connection to nature is further highlighted by a sound installation in the entry tunnel, which amplifies the serene sounds of the surrounding countryside, creating a sensory experience from the moment guests arrive.

The new winery is designed with sustainability in mind. It features a green roof and rainwater collection tanks for irrigation and reuse, combining innovative architecture with eco-conscious functionality. The result is a perfect balance of design, practicality, and respect for the environment.

Our new winery was born out of our passion for the land, our dedication to the vineyards, and our meticulous care for each vine,” said Diego Bosoni. “It celebrates the relationship between the earth and man, and the architectural design is a tribute to Vermentino and Colli di Luni. It embodies our philosophy, and we’ve created three unique experiences to help visitors discover it."

Lunae's Different Expressions of Vermentino

Cuvée Lunae Brut Metodo Classico Millesimato 2019
Cuvée Lunae is a classic method sparkling wine obtained from Vermentino and another local grape, Albarola, offering a unique expression of the region’s winemaking heritage. Grown in vineyards near the Apuan Alps and Ligurian Sea, the hand-harvested grapes are soft-pressed and fermented in steel tanks at controlled temperatures. The wine ages on fine lees for 8 months, followed by 26 months of bottle aging before disgorgement. Albarola brings acidity and flavor, while Vermentino adds aromatic complexity and a distinct regional character. The result is a straw yellow wine with fine and persistent effervescence, a fresh, expansive nose featuring Mediterranean herbs, white-pulp fruits and subtle hints of flint and brioche. On the palate, pronounced sapidity and balanced acidity a long, elegant, fruity finish.

Vermentino Etichetta Grigia Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino 2023
The Vermentino Etichetta Grigia, first crafted by Paolo Bosoni over 40 years ago, remains an enduring symbol of the cellar. Sourced from the foothills of Luni, the grapes undergo temperature-controlled fermentation in steel and age on fine lees for approximately three months, preserving its signature freshness and elegance. On the nose, the bouquet opens with concentrated citrus notes of lemon peel and lime, chalk and Mediterranean shrubs, complemented by subtle hints of white peach and chamomile. The palate is soft and round, with a delicate creaminess, beautifully balanced between bright acidity and a pleasant sapidity leading to a fruity, persistent finish that lingers beautifully.

Vermentino Etichetta Nera Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino 2023
The first vintage of this wine dates back to 1992, following extensive research in both vineyard and cellar. The goal was to showcase the potential of Vermentino in this region. Grown in the hills of Luni and Castelnuovo Magra, the grapes undergo a short cold maceration on the skins for 8 hours, followed by temperature-controlled fermentation and four months of aging on fine lees in steel. Hand-harvested in the early morning, the best vineyard parcels are carefully selected each year. The result is a rich, complex Vermentino with a straw yellow color with a nose that opens with ripe yellow stone fruits, white flowers, Mediterranean herbs, and a touch of brine. On the palate, it balances vibrant freshness and sapidity with a soft rounded body, leading to a long, persistent finish with hints of almond.

Cavagino Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino 2023
Cavagino is one of the first Vermentino crus in the Luni area, born from a small vineyard on the hills and considered a gem of the winery. Its exceptional fruit quality led to a dedicated vinification process to enhance its complexity. Grown in the Colli di Luni and Castelnuovo Magra regions at 250 meters above sea level, the vineyard benefits from a unique microclimate and fossil-rich soil. The grapes undergo cold maceration for 12 hours, with fermentation split between steel (60%) and barriques (40%) then aged on fine lees for six months. The wine reveals an intense straw yellow color. On the nose, complex aromas of ripe yellow-stone fruits, tropical fruits, candied citrus and honey, and yellow flowers. The palate is rich and balanced, with acidity and sapidity complementing a creamy texture, and a long finish marked by ripe yellow fruit and a subtle note of sapidity.

Numero Chiuso Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino 2020
Numero Chiuso was created from the idea of crafting a 100% Vermentino capable of evolving over time. This Colli di Luni white wine is designed to express its fruit's youthfulness while aging gracefully. The grapes undergo cold maceration for 12 hours, followed by fermentation in steel and 18 months of aging in 20 hl oak barrels, with an additional 18 months of bottle aging. Sourced from two historic vineyards in the Colline di Luni and Castelnuovo Magra, this limited-edition Vermentino is produced only in the best vintages, with just 2,600 bottles per release. It has a brilliant straw yellow color with golden reflections, and a complex bouquet of tropical fruits, ripe yellow-stone fruits, and notes of vanilla. The palate is savory and vibrant, with lively acidity and ends with a note of almonds.

Diego Bosoni Padre Figlio 2022 and 2023

Both vintages of Padre Figlio deliver a golden straw-yellow wine, with intense, complex aromas of flowers, ripe fruits, and Mediterranean herbs, with the palate mirroring these sensations, enriched by a subtle almond note. The wine’s ample, enveloping body is balanced by refreshing acidity, perfectly reflecting Diego Bosoni’s philosophy: “ancient winemaking techniques, contemporary care.” The 100% Vermentino, sourced from a single vineyard in Castelnuovo Magra, thrives in lean, stony soils, where deep-rooted vines produce grapes with remarkable resilience. Harvested in the cool morning hours, the grapes are destemmed and spontaneously fermented on the skins in steel. The 2022 vintage was aged in a large 30-quintal barrel, while the 2023 vintage rested in amphora, each for one year, followed by further refinement in stainless steel for another year.

With the change of refinement container to a temperature-controlled, unlined amphora in the 2023 vintage, the wine reveals an exciting transformation on the palate. This shift enhances the wine’s lively freshness and brings out a refined elegance. The amphora aging amplifies the minerality and balances the wine’s complexity, creating a bright, energetic mouthfeel. The fresh fruit and herbal notes are integrated well with subtle almond hints, leading to a crisp, elegant finish that lingers with finesse. The result? A wine that embodies the label’s promise: the warm, patient depth and richness of the father, paired with the vibrant, energetic freshness of the son.

Vermentino Nero Liguria di Levante IGT 2023
Vermentino Nero, a rare grape variety native to the coastal hills of northern Tuscany and eastern Liguria, is renowned for its deep color and structured tannins. Lunae, recognizing its potential, planted a 3-hectare vineyard in the early 2000s. The wine is fermented in steel tanks at controlled temperatures, with a 10-day maceration on the skins, followed by 6 months of aging in 20hl wooden barrels. Grown in two distinct terroirs, foothills with medium-textured soils and the sandy plains of Luni, the wine achieves a perfect balance of finesse and structure. Deep purple in color, it offers a fruit-forward nose with floral hints of violet and light dried spices. The palate is fresh, light, and dynamic, with well-integrated tannins. When served chilled, it can also be paired with complex-cooked blue fish, adding to its versatility.