GRASPO: Custodians of Italy's Almost Extinct Indigenous Grapes

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 11/20/2024

GRASPO: Custodians of Italy's Almost Extinct Indigenous Grapes

The Slow Food Rome event, coordinated by Andrea Petrini, provided an exceptional platform to emphasize the preservation of ancient grape varieties and their essential role in sustainable viticulture. Held at Spazio Fare in Mercato Centrale Rome on November 13, 2024, the gathering brought together custodians of historic vineyards to share valuable insights into the cultural, environmental, and agricultural importance of old vines. At the heart of the discussions was G.R.A.S.P.O., a leading organization dedicated to identifying, preserving, and reviving nearly forgotten grape varieties.

During the event, G.R.A.S.P.O. presented 11 wines crafted from indigenous grape varieties, many teetering on the edge of extinction if not for the dedication of passionate viticulturists who have rediscovered and cultivated them. Of the 11, 10 are experimental wines not yet available on the market, vinified in stainless steel to showcase the pure essence of each grape without interference from complex winemaking techniques. The only commercial wine, Sassotondo’s Nocchianello Nero, highlighted the extraordinary potential of these forgotten grapes to reclaim their place in modern viticulture, offering a compelling vision of a future where tradition and innovation unite.

Source of three photos above: G.R.A.S.P.O.

About G.R.A.S.P.O.

G.R.A.S.P.O., the Gruppo di Ricerca Ampelografica Sostenibile per la Preservazione della Biodiversità Viticola (Sustainable Ampelographic Research Group for the Preservation of Viticultural Biodiversity), is a non-profit organization dedicated to the identification, preservation, and revival of ancient grape varieties. Recognizing biodiversity as a cornerstone of sustainable viticulture, G.R.A.S.P.O. catalogs and protects grapes that have nearly vanished from modern vineyards. By collaborating with researchers, farmers, and public institutions, and employing advanced tools like DNA analysis, the organization not only safeguards the genetic heritage of these vines but also preserves the cultural narratives tied to them.

Aldo Lorenzoni, co-founder of G.R.A.S.P.O.

The origins of G.R.A.S.P.O. trace back 20 years to the rediscovery of Saccola, a rare red grape found at over 700 meters in the village of Sprea, Lessinia. The discovery, led by founders Aldo Lorenzoni, former director of the Soave Consortium, and enologist Luigino Bertolazzi, inspired their mission to save ancient grape varieties. After a pause, their efforts resumed in 2020, uncovering forgotten varieties across Veneto and beyond. G.R.A.S.P.O. now combines scientific research, experimental winemaking, and education to bring these grapes back to life. Their book, 100 Custodians for 100 Varieties, pairs the history of these ancient vines with the wines crafted from them, showcasing the profound potential of biodiversity to enrich the future of viticulture.

Vernazola

The Vernazola grape flourishes in Gianmarco Guarise’s historic piantata in Urbana, Veneto, a remarkable example of early 20th-century mixed farming that combines vines with ancient willows. Known regionally as Vernazina, Vernanzina, or Bianca Gentile di Fonzaso, Vernazola belongs to the Bianchetta Trevigiana lineage, historically cultivated from the Lagarina Valley to the plains of Padua. Producing around 12 quintals annually, its grapes are vinified in harmony with lunar cycles, yielding wines celebrated for their straw-yellow color, fruity and elegant aromas, and a well-balanced saline-acid backbone with fresh almond notes. First documented by Zava in 1901 and later praised by Marzotto in 1925 as "one of the best wine grape varieties," Vernazola was once widely valued for its quality but declined after the devastating frost of 1709. Today, this piantata is celebrated as a vital link to Italy's agricultural heritage, embodying history, sustainability, and innovation, with renewed recognition as a model for conservation efforts.

Liseirit

Liseriet, an indigenous grape once prominent in the Bormida Valley and nearby Alpine regions like Maira, Susa, and Pinerolese, has a long history as a table grape and a family-use varietal. Revered for its small berries, early ripening, and excellent tartaric acidity, it thrived in the region’s cold climates and was even noted in pre-phylloxera Europe. However, the Bormida Valley’s viticulture was decimated by industrial pollution from the Cengio factory, leaving only a few scattered vines. Known also as Preverial, Liseriet caught the attention of 1980s winemakers for its ability to enhance acidity in blends like Moscato d’Asti, though regulatory constraints halted further use. Today, as the Bormida Valley begins to recover, there is renewed hope that Liseriet may once again grace its historic terraced vineyards, reclaiming its place in Italy’s viticultural heritage.

Gianmarco Guarise’s historic piantata of Vernazola vines in Urbana, Veneto

Leonicena

Leonicena, also known as Uvetta di Lonigo or Obi-Molinelli, was first identified in the 1980s in the Arcole DOC area, spanning over 4,000 hectares in Verona and Vicenza provinces. Its origins trace back to Lonigo, where post-phylloxera vines at the Fochesato farm displayed remarkable vigor, consistent productivity, and extraordinary resistance to rot and frost, surviving the devastating winter of 1985 that wiped out nearly 2,000 hectares of other varieties. Known for its resilience to flavescenza dorata, efforts by the Fochesato family, Ferdinando D’Andrea, and Mario Corato of Cantina dei Colli Berici led to the creation of a 3,000 m² experimental vineyard in 1990. Early vinifications produced promising results, yielding wines with pale straw-yellow hues, floral and tobacco leaf aromas, and a delicate, dry, full-bodied character, though not suitable for aging. DNA analysis in 1996 confirmed Leonicena as a pure Vitis vinifera, dispelling earlier hybrid theories. Today, it is cultivated on over 50 hectares, valued for its resilience, and is actively used to replace vines affected by flavescenza dorata, with ongoing efforts to secure its official recognition and preservation.

Brepona

Antonio Tebaldi, an 85-year-old winegrower from Soave, has dedicated his life to preserving the nearly forgotten Brepona grape, one of the three historic varieties used to make Recioto di Soave, Veneto’s first DOCG wine. While Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave are more widely known, Brepona, recently added to the National Register of Grapes, is regaining recognition for its unique qualities. Tebaldi, working in the Burgan area, has saved numerous ancient grape varieties, including Marcobona, Rabiosa, and his favorite, Brepona, once known by names like Breppon and Molinara Bianca. Historically sought for its spicy profile and straw-yellow wine with aging potential, Brepona had nearly disappeared, mistaken for other varieties. Tebaldi explains its distinctive waxy bloom, vigorous growth, and sparse berries, traits that once made it popular for blending and ground cover. Today, thanks to Tebaldi’s efforts, Brepona is poised to reclaim its place in Soave’s viticultural legacy.

Piccola Nera

Piccola Nera is a red grape variety native to the border region of Italy and Slovenia, particularly the province of Trieste in Friuli-Venezia Giulia and the Coastal–Karst region of Slovenia, where it is believed to have originated. Named for its small, dark-skinned berries, Piccola Nera is a late-ripening variety that requires careful pruning to manage its vigorous growth and high yields. Known for producing light-bodied red and rosé wines with little aging potential, it is often enjoyed young. In Italy, it is primarily grown in the Carso DOC, where it is blended with Terrano, and can also be used for varietal wines under the Venezia IGT classification. Outside of Italy, limited plantings exist in Slovenia’s Littoral wine region. Occasionally confused with Trollinger in Trentino-Alto Adige, Piccola Nera has a range of synonyms, including Mala Cerna and Petit Raisin, reflecting its historical cultivation across diverse regions.

Gambugliana

The Gambugliana is a rare grape variety from the Veneto region, first mentioned in 1868 under names like Negrara, Dorona, and Cenerente. Cavalier Clementi later associated it with Negrara dal Pedemonte, but studies have confirmed it as a distinct variety. Historical records, including the Ampelographic Bulletin (1880–1883) and works by Zava (1905) and Marzotto (1925), document its cultivation in Verona, Vicenza, and Piedmont under various names such as Negretta, Gambugiana, and Farinente. Marzotto also linked it to Corbinona but recognized it as separate. By 1950, Montanari and Ceccarelli emphasized its importance in red wines from Brendola and Arzignano. Today, Gambugliana vines have been found at the Graser estate in Grancona, matching historical descriptions. The grape produces a light ruby wine with high acidity and rich tannins, showcasing its unique character and potential.

Quaiara

La Quaiara, a nearly forgotten black grape variety primarily cultivated in the province of Verona, is considered synonymous with Pelara or Dindarella. Documented as early as 1933 by F. De Leonardis in Valpolicella and Bardolino, it was later mentioned by Montanari and Ceccarelli in 1950 as being grown in the Squaranto and Mezzane valleys, though not recommended for further use. In the 1970s, efforts to recover Quaiara were initiated by the Verona Agricultural Inspectorate and the Experimental Viticulture Institute of Conegliano, planting it in catalog fields and experimental vineyards. GRASPO’s recent research uncovered its intriguing connection to the Austro-Balkan variety Vulpea, sparking new interest. Today, vines identified as Quaiara are cultivated at Giovanni Montresor’s historic estate, Corte Quaiara, with plans to revive its enological legacy through ongoing experimentation and collaboration.

Rossa Burgan

Antonio Tebaldi, born in 1938, has spent his life as a winegrower in Soave, passionately preserving the unique varietal expressions of his historic vineyards. While his primary focus has been Garganega, Tebaldi has also safeguarded lesser-known varieties such as Durella biotypes, the historic Cavrara or Bassanese, Marcobona, Brepona Bianca, and the exceptional Rossa Burgan. DNA analysis confirmed Brepona Bianca and Rossa Burgan as entirely unique Vitis vinifera varieties, with Rossa Burgan proving particularly remarkable. Discovered on an over-80-year-old vine, it displays excellent vigor, consistent yields, resistance to fungal diseases, and no need for treatments. GRASPO's vinifications of Rossa Burgan reveal a brilliant ruby-red wine with intense raspberry and blackberry aromas, refined spiciness, and a bold yet elegant palate, where freshness and salinity harmonize into an unexpectedly sophisticated finish. Tebaldi's dedication underscores the critical role of biodiversity in preserving wine's connection to its origins, especially amidst climate challenges, ensuring future wines retain their distinctive identity and heritage.

Uva Gatta

The Uva Gatta, documented as both a white and red variety, was first showcased at the 1868 public exhibition and identified in 1870 as an ancient hybrid of Marzemina, known for producing strong, semi-sweet table and dessert wines. Zava (1901) noted its cultivation in Padua, Udine, and Treviso, where it was also called Marzemina Matta. By 1925, Marzotto described it as a declining variety, limited to specific clay-limestone soils in Padua and Vicenza, and highlighted two types: one with a superior red stalk and another with a green stalk. Its wine is bright red with low acidity, often blended with more acidic varieties. Despite its resistance to flower drop and fungal diseases, Montanari and Ceccarelli (1950) viewed it as unsuitable for further cultivation. A matching Gatta vine was rediscovered at the Graser estate in Grancona, confirming its historical descriptions.

Cenerente

The Cenerente grape is an ancient variety primarily grown in southern Vicenza and parts of Treviso and Verona. It is known by several names, including Molinara Farinente (Soave), Farinente or Zenerente (Roncà), and Gambugliana (Soave and Montebello). Its waxy bloom, giving the berries a floury or ashy appearance, likely inspired these names. First noted in 1868 by Cav. Clementi and later documented by Carpenè in 1873, it was widely cultivated in Venice and Vicenza. While the grape produced abundant yields and showed moderate resistance to fungal diseases, Zava (1901) criticized its wine quality, and Marzotto (1925) highlighted its vulnerability to downy mildew, which contributed to its decline in lowland areas. By 1950, it was reported in limited quantities in Verona and southern Vicenza, where it remained part of wines like Arcugnano and Barbarano Rosso. Recent studies at Count Piovene's estate in Toara (VI) confirm its historical characteristics while distinguishing it from Gambugliana, underscoring its historical importance and the need for further research.

Nocchianello Nero

Carla Benini and Edoardo Ventimiglia of the Sassotondo estate in Pitigliano exemplify the dedication of custodians preserving ancient grape varieties, particularly Nocchianello Nero. They began cultivating vines and crafting wines in the 1990s, embracing the unique terroir of this Etruscan heartland with its volcanic tuff and historic rock-hewn cellars. Sassotondo spans 72 hectares, including 13 organically farmed vineyards in Sorano and Pitigliano, where indigenous varieties thrive, including their standout Ciliegiolo and the Nocchianello Nero. First documented in 1883, Nocchianello was revived in 2010 with the support of CREA Arezzo and the University of Pisa, leveraging genetic material preserved in the region’s old vineyards. Adapted to Pitigliano’s shallow tuff soils, its small, compact bunches produce grapes with high acidity, moderate sugars, and distinctive flavors. Now recognized in Italy’s official grape registry and bearing no known genetic ties, Nocchianello Nero has become a flagship for Sassotondo, showcased in their Monte Rosso wine, a vibrant ruby-red with aromas of white pepper, cassis, and nutmeg, offering balanced acidity and a persistent, peppery finish.