Cantine Palazzo Marchesale: The Heritage of Asprinio from Married Grape Vines

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 12/26/2024

Cantine Palazzo Marchesale: The Heritage of Asprinio from Married Grape Vines

During the flourishing Bourbon Kingdom, when Italy was still a geographical concept, the lush Aversa countryside became renowned for its ancient tradition of cultivating vite maritata (married vines or tree-trained vines). In the early 19th century, the Benfidi and Vanacore families of Brianza adopted this unique method, producing Asprinio wine, a true expression of the region’s winemaking heritage. These vines, trained to climb poplar trees to heights of up to 20 meters, form striking green walls laden with white grapes. Known as alberate aversane, this technique not only defines the iconic Aversa landscape but also enhances Asprinio’s signature acidity, as the elevated growth conditions contribute to its refreshing character.

For over four generations, the Benfidi-Vanacore families have preserved this historic tradition, hand-harvesting grapes with narrow ladders and maturing the wine in 15-meter-deep tuff caves. These underground cellars, still in use today, provide the perfect environment for aging the wine, maintaining a cool and stable temperature. Recognized with a Controlled Designation of Origin (DOC) in 1993, Asprinio continues to thrive, celebrated for its faint lemon aroma and unparalleled dryness, described by Italian journalist Mario Soldati as “a great little wine.”

The Benfidi and Vanacore Families and the Marchesale Palace

The Benfidi and Vanacore families have been central to the legacy of Asprinio wine since the early 19th century, cultivating vite maritata, tree-trained vines reaching heights of up to 20 meters. Harvesting these vines requires exceptional skill, using custom-fitted ladders called scalilli to preserve the grapes’ signature acidity and freshness. Beneath the Aversa countryside, their historic tuff cellars provide ideal conditions for aging, ensuring the wine’s unique character endures.

Their story is intertwined with the Marchesale Palace in Villa di Briano, a historic landmark once home to Lombard aristocrats and later the Pallavicini family. The palace, steeped in legend, was rumored to safeguard sacred relics like the Holy Shroud during the Middle Ages. Today, while remodeled, it remains a symbol of the region’s history and serves as inspiration for the families’ dedication to preserving Asprinio’s traditions. By blending centuries-old practices with modern winemaking, they have elevated this iconic wine while honoring the cultural heritage of their land.

The Asprinio Wines of Cantine Palazzo Marchesale

Asprinio wine, a DOC wine from the Campania region, is celebrated for its unique characteristics. Aversa Asprinio DOC is known for its straw-yellow color and intense, fruity aroma, with a dry, refreshing palate. It comes in two main styles: a still dry wine and a brut sparkling wine, both of which showcase the distinctiveness of the Asprinio grape and its terroir.

IX Denari

The name "IX Denari" dates back to 1640 during the Angevin reign when Asprinio in Naples was priced at 9 denarii per carafe (approximately 750ml). This traditional Asprinio wine, a still white DOC, is vinified in steel vats at controlled temperatures, maturing for four months in steel and two months in the bottle. Hand-harvested from 12-meter-high, centuries-old vines, it reflects Aversa’s rich winemaking heritage and artisanal dedication.

IX Denari boasts a bright straw-yellow hue that hints at its freshness and lightness. On the nose, it reveals vibrant citrus and fruit aromas with intensity. The palate is bold, featuring a lively and crisp, refreshing finish. Reaching its peak after 12–18 months, it pairs perfectly with buffalo mozzarella, seafood, and tomato-based dishes. Its crisp profile also makes it an excellent aperitif, capturing the timeless charm of Asprinio wine.

Brianò

Brianò, the brut sparkling wine from Palazzo Marchesale, is a collaboration between oenologists Stefano Ferrante and Danilo Trabucco, crafted exclusively from 100% Asprinio grapes. These grapes are harvested early from vines cultivated in the traditional alberata style on the Benfidi and Vanacore families’ land in the Aversa countryside. Using 20-meter-high scalilli (ladders), the grapes are handpicked and vinified for sparkling wine production. The wine undergoes a second fermentation using the Charmat method, followed by a 3-month refinement to preserve its aromatic integrity. The result is a sparkling wine with fine, persistent bubbles that accentuate the crispness of Asprinio, delivering a fresh, delicate, and modern palate.

On the nose, Brianò offers floral notes of jasmine and fruity aromas of apple, pear, and pineapple. Its bright, lively character pairs beautifully with raw fish, crustaceans, mollusks, tartare, and light fried dishes. It also complements buffalo mozzarella perfectly, a tribute to its origins in Villa di Briano, where the winery’s historic tree-lined terraces inspired its name.