Rocca del Principe: Two Decades of a Family’s Journey with Fiano di Avellino

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 12/11/2024

Rocca del Principe: Two Decades of a Family’s Journey with Fiano di Avellino

The Zarrella family’s deep ties to viticulture span generations, though not always at a commercial level. While previous generations focused on local production, it was the determination of Ercole Zarrella that revived the family’s wine legacy, steering it toward refined, high-quality viticulture. With a respect for the environment, a focus on micro-areas, and innovative projects, including a new label developed by Ercole’s daughter Simona, the family has elevated their winery to well-deserved recognition.

Ercole Zarrella and Aurelia Fabrizio, owners of Rocca del Principe

Located in Arianello, within the municipality of Lapio, the Zarrella family has a longstanding connection to agriculture and winemaking. Their vineyards historically produced Aglianico, Sciascinoso, Fiano, and Coda di Volpe. While Ercole’s father did not pursue winemaking commercially, Ercole embraced the opportunity in 1990, driven by a renewed interest in Fiano, a grape once known for sparkling wines but now celebrated for its exceptional dry, still expressions.

Founded in 2004 by Ercole, his wife Aurelia Fabrizio, and his brother Antonio, Rocca del Principe emerged as a beacon of Irpinia’s potential. Located on the hills of Lapio, where the cooling influence of the Picentini mountains creates ideal conditions for viticulture, the winery has embraced the region’s terroir. With vineyards spanning 7 hectares, ranging from volcanic soils in the higher elevations of Arianiello to clay-rich terrain in the lower Calore Valley, the family produces nuanced and elegant expressions of Fiano.

In 2018, Ercole and Aurelia's daughter, Simona Zarrella joined as the winery’s oenologist, adding a fresh perspective to the family’s vision. Under her guidance, the winery has continued to prioritize early harvests and balanced viticulture, ensuring freshness and finesse even in challenging vintages. Today, Rocca del Principe produces approximately 40,000 bottles annually, focusing on typicity and the unique characteristics of Lapio’s terroir.

Ercole Zarrella

Rocca del Principe is more than a winery; it is a testament to the Zarrella family’s vision, skill, and unwavering commitment to excellence. Their wines, from the groundbreaking 2004 debut vintage to the standout 2007, reflect their dedication to crafting ageworthy, expressive wines that celebrate the purity and potential of Irpinia’s terroir.

Beviamoci Sud: 6th Edition

Now in its sixth edition, Beviamoci Sud has become a cornerstone for discovering Southern Italian wines and fostering connections between producers, industry professionals, and enthusiasts. Organized by Riserva Grande and wine blogger Andrea Petrini (Percorsi di Vino), with technical direction by journalist and gastronome Luciano Pignataro, the event celebrates the rich diversity of Southern Italy’s winemaking. This year, over 50 carefully selected producers presented their wines, with a new focus on holiday-ready gift packaging, adding an extra touch of festivity to the experience.

Masterclass: A Historical 20-Year Vertical Tasting of Fiano di Avellino of Rocca del Principe

At a masterclass celebrating the 20th anniversary of Rocca del Principe’s winemaking legacy, Ercole Zarrella presented a remarkable vertical tasting of nine vintages of his Fiano di Avellino Tognano cru, spanning 2007 to 2022. Accompanied by his wife, Aurelia, a steadfast partner in their winemaking journey, and guided by experts Luciano Pignataro and Andrea Petrini, the session served as a significant opening to the Beviamoci Sud wine event, held over three days at Hotel Palatino in Rome.

The journey of Fiano at Rocca del Principe began in 1990, with the planting of vines in Contrada di Tognano, a high-altitude area in the comune of Lapio, ranging from 230 to 630 meters above sea level. Subsequent vineyards were established even higher, between 550 and 600+ meters. Years of careful observation and experimentation revealed that the Contrada di Tognano’s north to northeast exposure offered the most favorable conditions for cultivating Fiano. Its volcanic soil, rich in hydric properties, ensures healthy grape development by preventing prolonged humidity. This unique terroir proved its worth during the challenging 2023 vintage, when unfavorable conditions impacted many, yet Tognano’s vineyards delivered healthy grapes.

(From L to R): Aurelia Fabrizio, Ercole Zarrella, Luciano Pignataro and Andrea Petrini

Rocca del Principe’s Fiano is always vinified exclusively in stainless steel, a method that preserves the purity and vibrancy of its flavors. The wine is bottled after Christmas, following 12 to 14 months of bâtonnage, a process that enhances its aging potential Known for its pronounced acidity and remarkable evolution over time, Fiano from Tognano expresses its full character after a period of careful maturation.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino Riserva DOCG 2022
Just released to the market, this wine showcases a fresh and youthful character, brimming with vibrant energy. The aroma is an elegant bouquet of white flowers and fruits with white pulp, offering a delicate yet enticing complexity. On the palate, its marked acidity stands out, providing a crisp and lively structure that enhances its territorial expression. A true reflection of its origin, this wine speaks authentically to its roots

Tognano Fiano di Avellino Riserva DOCG 2020
The nose is evolving beautifully, offering aromas of yellow stone fruits and wet stone. On the palate, balsamic notes and aromatic herbs emerge, adding complexity and depth. At mid-palate, the alcohol becomes noticeable, subtly influencing the wine's balance. The 2020 vintage experienced more rainfall compared to 2022, which contributed to a slower fermentation process than in previous years. While the wine's acidity has softened slightly with time, it remains a dominant feature, showcasing its vibrant and structured character.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2018
A very rainy and cool vintage, this wine is evolving beautifully on the nose, revealing a more complex and refined aromatic profile. Ercole describes it as evoking "aromas of the mountains," with notes of yellow stone fruits, dried flowers, and delicate balsamic nuances. The pronounced acidity remains a defining feature, while the palate is beginning to express broader, more ample flavors, showcasing the wine's developing depth and elegance.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2016
A vintage marked by excellent climatic conditions, with cool temperatures that favored exceptional white wines. The nose is captivating, offering a wide array of beautifully expressed aromas. On the palate, the wine boasts vibrant acidity, achieving a harmonious balance. The mouthfeel is elegant and refined, showcasing the vintage's remarkable character and precision.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2014
Another rainy vintage, the wine is evolving with a brighter, medium straw-yellow hue. The nose reveals impressive complexity and concentration, offering aromas of pastries, yellow stone fruits, dried flowers, and a prominent chamomile note. On the palate, it displays flavors of yellow pulp, with a supple texture and a delicate hint of bitterness on the finish, adding to its intrigue and balance.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2012
A vintage defined by dry conditions, resulting in a notably concentrated and complex nose. Aromas of aromatic herbs and pine resin dominate, offering a layered and intriguing profile. On the palate, the concentration is more subdued compared to the nose, but the wine’s vibrant, pronounced acidity remains a standout feature, providing excellent structure and balance.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2011
A vintage defined by intense heat in August, tempered by rain in September. The nose is captivating, with a delicate powdery quality, complemented by fumé, toasted notes, and hints of yellow pulp. On the palate, the acidity, though tamed, remains pronounced, allowing the wine to achieve the maximum expression of Fiano’s character and complexity.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2010
A dry vintage, similar to 2012, with an ample and expressive nose showcasing yellow pulp, hints of sulfur, dried chamomile, and pastries. On the palate, the wine is soft and rounded, concluding with a delicate touch of bitterness that adds complexity to the finish.

Tognano Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2007
Remarkably youthful on the nose, with a fresh and vibrant profile complemented by subtle notes of pastries. On the palate, the wine concludes with a touch of bitterness, adding to its complexity. A warm vintage that has undergone exceptionally good evolution, showcasing its enduring vitality and character.