Bertinga: Elevating Chianti Classico, One Vineyard at a Time
We arrived at Bertinga Winery mid-morning, welcomed by Luca Vitiello, the estate’s Sales and Marketing Director, who took us on a tour of the vineyards before visiting the cellar. Driving and walking through the sloping parcels, we took in the spectacular view of the meticulously maintained rows of vines stretching across the hillsides of Gaiole in Chianti, each with its own unique characteristics. Luca highlighted the distinct traits of the soils, exposures, and microclimates that shape the Sangiovese and Merlot vines, providing an insight into the complexity behind their wines.
Owned by Anatoly Korneev and Maxim Kashirin, Bertinga is tucked in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico region, a landscape celebrated for its beauty and unparalleled winegrowing. The estate sits in one of the most prestigious areas of the denomination, reaching altitudes of up to 800 meters. Its alberese clay-limestone soils have nurtured vines for centuries, yielding wines that are as distinctive as they are prized. Describing Bertinga is as simple as counting to four: one growing area, two grapes, three vineyards, and four wines. Yet, beneath this simplicity lies a depth shaped by its terroir, the precision of its caretakers, and the rich winemaking traditions of this storied region.
The visit provided an appreciation for the dedication and precision involved in creating each bottle. The clay-limestone soils that lend structure to the reds, the steep slopes demanding meticulous, hands-on farming, and the varied microclimates all play a role in defining the unique identity of Bertinga’s wines. With this perspective, we proceeded to the winery for a tasting, where the character of the vineyards came alive in every glass.
The Vineyards of Bertinga
Bertinga Winery is deeply rooted in the rich terroir of Chianti Classico, drawing its identity from three distinct vineyard sites: Bertinga, Adine, and Vertine. Each vineyard contributes unique characteristics to the wines: Bertinga offers structured elegance, Vertine adds refined intensity with its ample sunlight exposure, and Adine provides precise purity from its elevated, well-ventilated slopes. Together, these vineyards, located at some of the highest elevations in Gaiole in Chianti, embody the diverse soils, orientations, and microclimates that define the estate’s character. Anchored in centuries-old tradition, Bertinga’s dramatic landscape is crowned by a winery offering panoramic views of Tuscany’s castles, creating a seamless harmony between history and modern winemaking.
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| Elisa Ascani, Technical Director and Luca Vitiello, Marketing & Sales Director |
The vineyards, currently transitioning to organic certification, are managed with meticulous care by a dedicated team led by Technical Director Elisa Ascani and agronomist David Picci, supported by the expertise of oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt and his team of oenoligical consultants. Every aspect of vineyard management is tailored to preserve the vines' natural balance. "Our focus is to maintain the vines’ natural equilibrium," explains Ascani. "We adapt each practice to the specific needs of individual parcels, walking each row with calm precision to respond to the vines’ unique requirements."
Stéphane Derenoncourt, Oenologist Consultant
To promote soil health, vine rows are cover-cropped with organic mixtures customized for each micro-zone. "The vines’ needs and the soil composition dictate the balance of legumes, which fix nitrogen, and grasses, whose deep roots aerate the soil," adds Picci. Flowering plants, which attract beneficial insects, further enhance biodiversity while creating vibrant, colorful rows in the spring. Harvesting is done entirely by hand, with grapes carefully placed into 10kg crates to maintain their integrity, ensuring that each wine fully expresses the unique qualities of its origin.
David Picci, Agnonomist
Bertinga
The largest and most historic vineyard, Bertinga, lies below the village of Lecchi in Chianti. Its name traces back to 6th-century Lombard settlements, evolving from Le Bertinghe to the modern-day Bertinga. This high valley, divided into five parcels, was historically part of Castello di Ama before being acquired in 2015. The soils, primarily calcareous and clay-limestone from the Eocene era (50 million years old), are light, compact, and cool, ideal for cultivating both Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard covers 9 hectares of established vines aged 17 to 25 years, complemented by 3 hectares of younger plantings. Its north-facing parcels, rich in clay, are particularly suited to Merlot, while other areas produce structured and elegant reds.
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| Bertinga Vineyard (photo from Bertinga website) |
Vertine
To the north of Bertinga lies Vertine, a vineyard tucked beneath the historic castle that shares its name. With its south-facing orientation and steep, fan-shaped slopes, Vertine benefits from abundant sunlight, though its challenging terrain tests even specialized vineyard equipment. Its well-balanced soils contribute to wines of exceptional elegance and depth. Positioned prominently below the castle, Vertine produces grapes that bring refinement and intensity to Bertinga’s wines.
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| Vertine Vineyard (photo from Bertinga website) |
Adine
Located alongside the winery itself, Adine is a 4.5-hectare “mountain vineyard” planted exclusively with Sangiovese. Established in 2005, with an additional 3,000 square meters soon to be planted, Adine’s steep south-southwest orientation provides optimal sunlight and ventilation. Its loose, reddish-brown clay-limestone soils, formed during the Pre-Eocene era (100 million years ago), rest on a fractured rocky matrix, offering the perfect terroir for Sangiovese’s purity and expressiveness. The dramatic slopes give Adine a striking appearance, with vines that seem poised to cascade down the hillside, producing wines of extraordinary finesse.
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| Adine Vineyard (photo from Bertinga website) |
Wines Tasted
At Bertinga, every detail of the winemaking process reflects a commitment to quality and terroir. Grapes are meticulously hand-selected on sorting tables, ensuring only the finest berries are used. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and vitrified concrete vats, followed by aging in a combination of large oak ovals, Austrian oak tonneaux, and smaller French oak barrels to refine each wine's character.
The Bertinga collection features four Toscana IGT wines, each with its own distinct personality rooted in the estate's terroir. "The Chianti Classico denomination is a palette of superb qualities," says Director Luca Vitiello, "but our estate needed a language of its own." These wines share a balance of savory richness, tension, and elegance, designed to evolve with time and careful exploration.
As the Derenoncourt team explains, "We carefully analyzed the soils and their exposures and identified two parcels that were particularly expressive, one of Sangiovese, the other of Merlot. So, the owners decided to apply a magnifying glass, as it were, and try to find an interpretation that would be even more precise and penetrating." This philosophy informs the collection, where the flagship Bertinga and second wine Sassi Chiusi are complemented by two single-parcel cru wines, Punta di Adine and Volta di Bertinga, each offering a focused expression of the estate’s distinctive vineyards.
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico DOCG 2021
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico pays homage to its region, crafted from a meticulously chosen single vineyard of Sangiovese in Vertine. The wine undergoes fermentation in cement tanks and is aged for approximately 12 months in 25 hectolitre Austrian oak barrels, followed by an equal duration of bottle aging. It showcases a vibrant ruby red color and presents pronounced aromas predominantly of red berries, enriched by hints of black cherries, blackberries, and a subtle slate minerality. On the palate, it delivers refreshing acidity, a savory quality, and well-defined tannins, culminating in a rich, full-bodied sip.
Sassi Chiusi Toscana IGT 2019
Sassi Chiusi is a Sangiovese-dominant blend (85%) complemented by Merlot, offering a fresh and approachable expression of the estate’s vineyards. The Sangiovese is aged for 12 months in concrete vats, while the Merlot matures in third-passage tonneaux, followed by extended bottle aging for a refined finish. Released two years later than traditional Chianti Classico wines, it reveals a bright ruby hue with garnet reflections. Intense aromas of dark fruits, black cherries, juniper, and hints of dried tea leaves lend a notable density to its profile. On the palate, vibrant acidity and structured tannins create a round, soft mouthfeel, balanced by refreshing brightness, leading to a long, satisfying finish with lingering fruity elegance.
Bertinga Toscana IGT 2017
Bertinga is the estate’s flagship wine, embodying its essence through a precise selection of Sangiovese and Merlot grapes from the Bertinga vineyard, typically in a balanced 50-50 blend, though this may vary by vintage. Fermentation occurs separately in stainless steel tanks and vitrified concrete vats, with Sangiovese maturing in concrete and Merlot in Austrian oak tonneaux, 10% of which is new. After approximately 18 months of aging in oak and an equal period in bottle, the result is a wine that balances youthful vibrancy with exceptional aging potential. From a dry, warm vintage, the wine displays a ruby red hue with intense aromas of dark berries, dried Mediterranean spices, and red berries. On the palate, it is deep and complex, with a soft texture, firm tannins, and pronounced acidity.
Punta di Adine Toscana IGT 2017
Punta di Adine is a single-vineyard Sangiovese sourced from the top plateau of the Adine vineyard, with its terroir-driven identity highlighted on the label, which displays the vineyard’s coordinates and elevation. Fermented in concrete vats and aged in Austrian oak ovals, the wine reflects the purity and elegance of its site. From one of the driest and warmest vintages in recent decades, it opens with aromas of roasted coffee, black and red berries, slate, and a hint of eucalyptus. On the palate, velvety tannins support a mix of earthy notes, red berries soaked in alcohol, and pronounced acidity, leading to a long, structured finish.
Collezione MMXXIII - Volta di Bertinga Toscana IGT 2019, 2016 and 2015
Volta di Bertinga is the estate’s most distinctive wine, crafted from a single-parcel Merlot in block no. 10 of the Bertinga vineyard. This high-elevation, north-facing site, with clay-rich soils and low pH, provides ideal conditions for exceptional Merlot. Grapes are hand-harvested in 10kg boxes, with meticulous selection on sorting tables. Fermentation occurs in steel vats, followed by 18 months of aging in French oak barriques (30% new) and six years of bottle refinement before release. Described by winemaker Elisa Ascani as a “Merlot of the Heights,” this refined, structured wine embodies the unique terroir and craftsmanship of Bertinga. Limited to approximately 10,000 bottles annually, with a portion reserved for late-release programs, it exemplifies the estate’s commitment to producing world-class wines.
To celebrate the evolution of Volta di Bertinga, the estate has introduced Collezione MMXXIII, a special vertical collection featuring the 2015, 2016, and 2019 vintages. This limited-edition box set includes six bottles - two from each vintage, and is restricted to just 1,000 sets worldwide. The collection offers a rare opportunity to explore the distinct expressions of this exceptional Merlot across three remarkable years.
The 2019 vintage (released in October 2024) showcases a vibrant ruby red color with a dense and elegant bouquet. Aromas of blackberry, dried tea leaves, slate, and sweet dried spices dominate the nose. On the palate, it is rich and refined, featuring intense notes of black fruits and red cherries, supported by a full-bodied structure and a long, satisfying finish. This strong vintage, exceptional in both quality and quantity, delivers remarkable depth and complexity.
The 2016 vintage reflects the freshness of a cool climatic year. The nose is vibrant, with pronounced notes of Mediterranean herbs and a refreshing character. On the palate, the wine reveals bright acidity and notable sapidity, with red berries taking center stage over darker fruit tones. Powdery tannins add texture, while the wine's evolving complexity hints at its potential for further refinement with time.
The 2015 vintage offers a stunning expression of Merlot cultivated in high-altitude vineyards. In the glass, it presents a vibrant ruby red hue and an intense, complex nose with notes of dark fruit, blueberry, sweet dried spices, tobacco, and a touch of eucalyptus. On the palate, it unfolds with elegance and depth, featuring dark berries, velvety tannins, and a well-structured, balanced freshness that emerges mid-palate and carries through to a long, persistent finish. This vintage reflects both its readiness to enjoy now and its potential for further aging in the bottle.
Bertinga
Address: Le Terrazze di Adine 62, 53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI), Italy
Tel: +39 0577 746218
Website: https://www.bertinga.it
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BertingaWinery/
