An Elevated Irish Dining Experience at Landline Restaurant, Park Hotel Kenmare

After a day of winding through the breathtaking Ring of Kerry, with its rugged coastal vistas and postcard-perfect landscapes, I arrived in Kenmare, eager to unwind with a memorable meal. My destination was the historic Park Hotel Kenmare, home to Landline Restaurant, a refined yet welcoming space that has quickly become one of Ireland’s most celebrated dining experiences. Known for its seasonal Irish ingredients presented with a contemporary touch, it promised to be the perfect place to conclude a day of exploration.


Since acquiring Park Hotel Kenmare in November 2023, Bryan Meehan has been redefining one of Kerry’s most cherished five-star hotels. Building on the legacy of John and Francis Brennan, who owned the historic property for four decades, Meehan has introduced thoughtful updates while preserving its timeless elegance. One of his most significant changes is the Park’s new Landline Restaurant, named after the Sean Scully paintings adorning the walls. With local chef James O’Sullivan leading the kitchen, the restaurant’s cuisine reflects the same sophistication as its newly refined interiors.

More than just a dining space, Landline sets the standard for Ireland’s fine dining scene. Over the years, Park Hotel Kenmare has received numerous accolades, including the most recent Irish Restaurant Awards 2024: Best Wine Experience, and a coveted spot in the Michelin Guide, a remarkable feat for a newly launched restaurant. Head Chef James O’Sullivan, who was named Best Chef in Ireland (2019), brings a bold vision to the restaurant, his dedication to excellence, innovation, and modern Irish cuisine is evident in every dish.

Blending Ireland’s rich culinary heritage with contemporary refinement, Landline Restaurant offers an experience that feels both timeless and forward-thinking. The space exudes understated luxury, with curved booths, elegantly set tables, and striking Sean Scully artwork, creating a setting that is both sophisticated and inviting. Mark Golden and Louise Lynn lead the attentive service team, ensuring guests feel welcomed and valued. Whether you’re a guest of Park Hotel Kenmare or stopping by for dinner, Landline offers more than a meal—it creates an experience that stays with you long after the last bite.

A Menu That Showcases Ireland’s Best Ingredients

Head Chef James O’Sullivan curates a menu that celebrates Ireland’s finest produce, working with trusted local suppliers such as Fenit Fruit & Vegetables (Co. Kerry) for fresh, seasonal ingredients, Star Seafoods (Kenmare, Co. Kerry) for pristine shellfish, and Martin O’Leary’s farm (Beara, Co. Kerry) for heritage lamb and Dexter beef. His dishes highlight a deep respect for Irish terroir, combining traditional flavors with modern techniques.

Starters range from €19 to €32, with main courses priced between €32 and €48. Sides cost €7 each, while desserts fall within the €13 to €20 range, offering both sweet and savory finishes. The Spillane’s Crabmeat (€32), sourced from Kenmare’s waters, delivers a beautifully balanced dish with ajo blanco, yuzu, fennel, and fig leaf. The Seared Scallops (€32), paired with lardo, Jerusalem artichoke, and apple, contrast rich umami flavors with crisp freshness.


Among the standout main courses, the Pan-Seared Black Sole (€48), served with sauce Grenobloise, showcases perfect execution, with delicate fish enhanced by a bright, citrus-forward sauce. The Risotto (€32), featuring summer peas, broad beans, and girolles mushrooms, brings vibrant, seasonal flavors to a creamy and satisfying dish.


For a perfect finish, the Irish Farmhouse Cheese Selection (€16.50) presents an expertly curated selection of Ballylisk, Smoked Gubbeen, Milleens, Cashel Blue, and St Tola Ash, complemented by house-made chutney and crackers. The Soufflé (€14), a delicate passion fruit soufflé served with sauce Anglaise, delivers a light and airy texture with a beautifully balanced sweetness.

 

Low-Intervention Wines with a Sense of Place

One of Landline’s standout features is its commitment to low-intervention wines, carefully selected to complement the restaurant’s focus on pure, high-quality ingredients. The wine list showcases biodynamic, organic, and minimal-intervention wines, including selections from Patrick Bouju, a respected winemaker from the Auvergne region of France.

Bouju’s labels, Vivantterre (meaning “living earth”) and Domaine La Bohème (“Field of Bohemia”), reflect the philosophy behind Landline’s wine program—small-scale, artisanal winemaking that embraces creativity and nature. His wines feature organically and biodynamically farmed grapes, vinified using natural methods with no fining, filtering, or added sulfites. The result is a lineup of wines that express the distinct character of their clay and limestone terroir, offering a raw, vibrant energy that pairs beautifully with the carefully curated menu.

Landline Restaurant

Address: Park Hotel Kenmare, Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 X3XY, Ireland
Tel: +353 64 664 1200
Website: https://www.parkkenmare.com/dining/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/parkhotelkenmare 

 

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